Nice build, BJ d60, deavers, 70's short box frame, sounds kinda like my build. What are you going to do with the wheelbase if anything? What about steering (assist or full). Looks like the frame cleaned up rather good.

 

Yes, I'm dovetailing the front to keep the corners off trees on tight trails. It's also helping with aproach angle.

 

Wheel base wont be changed to much, I'll move the rear end forward a little after I see how what kind of driveshaft angle i'm workin with. The front is staying in stock position, that's why I moved the cab back on the frame to get the aproach angle. Seemed easier to go that route then moving the coil/shock buckets, track bar and gear box forward because of how it's boxed up there.

Steering will be crossover with hiems, no hydro assist or anything fancy.

Yesterday I got the rear cab mounts done, today I drilled holes and got them in place. Got holes drilled for the front's to get relocated. And................ stared at it alot lol. Tomorrow I'll get it bolted down, put the the front of the motor back together (changed the timing chain) after I pull the pan to clean all the chit that fell in it, get interupted by my 4x4 club meeting then start getting the front clip together. I really gotta get movin on this thing, gotta be wheelable by may 8th.

 

With my 60 in the factory position the driveshaft angle was crazy. I wound up pushing the axle forward 6 1/2" and things got alot better. I wasn't able to get my steering box the same though. I could only push it as far as the flat frame section was. About 5-5 1/2" I think. All that factory boxing and crossmember is right in the way. Had to cut it all out and redo everything. Are you planning on plating the outside of the frame right at the steering box? Alot of these frames get cracked right there. Which deavers? 4" or 6"

 

It'll be a little while before I get to see what the driveshafts are gonna look like, I think with my ZF tranny my front shaft will be longer then what yours would be. I cant see it being to terrible.

I've heard the steering box's like to tear the frames on 70's trucks but I haven't givin any thought to plating it yet but will do.

6 inch deavers, might swap for 4 inchers cause body lift might be needed and I didn't want any more then 6.

 

Decided to start setting up the front axle



So I got the dana 60 up on jack stands and started tearing it apart. Nothing seemed to go right after that! First one of the allen head screws in the lockout rounded out so had to drill that out. Then I didn't have the right wheel bearing socket and had 5 minutes to get to the parts store before they closed to get one. I called and they were nice enough to wait for me. So then I get back, get the rotor off and start taking off the nuts to pull the spindle and one of the studs were stripped! So then I had a fun time getting the nut off that stud. Finnaly got it off then the dam spindle would not come out! Slide hammer would not pull it out. After beating the crap out of it, it came loose. It took like two and half hours to pull the shaft on that side, It sucked. The other side went real easy and the shaft was out in 10 minutes.
Then everythin was going great. I threw the new pinion in the snow bank and stuck the inner pinion bearing in front of the heater for a while and when I went to put the bearing on the pinion It slide on no problem. Then when I got around to needing it I noticed the bearing didn't sit all the way down. There was about a 15 thousanths gap and at this point there was no moving the bearing and I dont have a press! I had to bring it to my buddy the next day and he couldn't get to it till today. So I have over 4 hours into this front axle with no real work done! Gears should have been about done in that time.

Any one know why the case bolts for the power lock I had in my old dana 44 were left hand thread and the dana 60's is right hand?

 

Daaaaaaamn thats a tiny pinion. What ratio? 5.xx?


Dana axles are a PITA to set up. You could always buy another set of carrier bearings and have them machined a little so they slip on and off real easy. Set your shims the way they need to be with the setup bearings and then press the good bearings on.

Easiest way I know.

 

Thats probably the best way you could do it. You don't want to destroy your bearing trying to press it on and off. Making a setup bearing is the only method i've ever really seen.

 

Yup the teeth on the pinion are almost cute. It's a 5.38 r&p. I actually bought set up bearings this time around. Learned my lesson on my first gear swap. Shimming the carrier is a breeze, still a pain to set pinion depth though. Today before work I got the pattern and backlash real close, probably even exceptable but I think I can get it better. I'll have it finished up tomorrow.

Can't wait to see what kind of fun the gears for the 14 bolt will bring. They were on backorder when I ordered them and should have been here last week. I'm guessing I'll have to grind into the pinion support, the discription said "housing may need to be modified". I had to kink the 4.11 gears out at an angle to get past it so I'm sure 5.38 thick gears are gonna cause an issue. Most likely the reason they are only available through two companies, Yukon and Superior. I bought Superiors. They only had a week on back order, Yukon was a month and they told me they would be shipped from korea! What a great company to advertise made in USA so extensively. Only Yukon set up kits for me from now on!

 

14bt gears should be pretty easy. Dont they set up similar to a 9"?

 

what are your plans for the 3 link? drivers or passengers side upper? link lengths, separation? ive been tossing the idea around, but i havent seen many fullsize fords with one.

 

since its an American made vehicle Id imagine driver side upper to match teh tie rod.

 

you do realize i meant upper link, right...?

 

Don't mind him, he's just an idiot.

 

And it really doesn't matter which one you are talking about either.....