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ok so my WTS light has either not been coming on or just for 1 second .. is this my controller?.. id really like push button gp's but Im HORRIBLE with electrical anything ha .. so can someone diagnose my symptems and give me easy like a 5 year old could understand steps on push button gps , pics would be awesome cause im very tired of using either ( i have all new zd1a's too that are only like 2 weeks old)
1984 f250 6.9: Dave has a good picture in post #2 on Glow plugs, 87 thru 94, new style system . Too bad you didn't get temperature limiting GPs, then you'd never have to worry about burning out your GPs.
to go push button all you need is a momentary switch and some wire...one side connects to 12v+ (and most guys agree its best to use a circuit that is controlled by the key so no one can hold the button on and burn the plugs up), the other side of the switch runs up and replaces the purple wire on the fender mounted GP relay (its the one facing up, not the one facing the motor.
to go push button all you need is a momentary switch and some wire...one side connects to 12v+ (and most guys agree its best to use a circuit that is controlled by the key so no one can hold the button on and burn the plugs up), the other side of the switch runs up and replaces the purple wire on the fender mounted GP relay (its the one facing up, not the one facing the motor.
What he said.
Just curious if they aren't coming on how are they going to burn up, his system has nothing to do with plug resistance, so short glow time means a controller problem not burnt plugs.
It's all cool, The old style will burn the plugs when the controller screws up, thats why I had mine wired up and ready, so that the first time I noticed the light come on when it shouldn't I pulled over and unhooked it and hooked the one for the manual right then on the side of the road. lol
ok noone EVER drives my truck but me ... so a switch is just fine.. and just run one wire to positive on the battery and one to the purple wire on the relay ? if my relay is bad will the switch not make a dif?.. one more question if i just take my old relay in to autozone can they just replace this or is this a ford only part ?
relay is avail at any autoparts store...you can test it by jumping the purple wire direct to batt +, just dont keep it on too long and burn up the plugs....as soon as you touch the terminals you should hear the contact close (loud click).
as far as the switch, grab power from somewhere in the cab and take it to one side of the switch, run the other side to where the purple wire is, the purple wire you can tape up and out of the way...keep in mind the switch is not going to see a high load as all it is doing is powering the relay, so 14~16Ga wire will suffice, and you do want a momentary switch so it does not get left on (the $100 mistake)
so lemme get this right? run one wire to positive on the battery ( as im the only one who drives the truck) and run the other to the purple wire on the relay after i take a piece of wire and touch one end to the purple terminal and one to the + on the battery to check the relay ? and that should take care of it ?
When the relay has power on the purple wire terminal, the relay will close and send power to the glow plugs.
So find a power source, not much power needed to close the relay so your wire can be 14 or 16 gauge for this mod.
Start at the power source and run a wire to one terminal of a momentary switch that is mounted in a convienent place.
From the other terminal of the momentary switch run a wire from there to the purple wire terminal of the relay.
Remove the purple wire so the original controller can not turn the glow plugs on.
You are done.
Now turn the key on, push the switch for 10 seconds, start the engine.
PS Before you ask, the glow plug harness wires are not on the relay in that picture.
disconnect the purple wire...when you put power where the purple wire is connected the glow plugs turn on.
to test the relay you can temporarily run power from the battery to that terminal...when you touch the wire to it if it is operating normally you should hear a click, it should then click again when you remove the wire...if you get no clicking, or lots of clicking your relay is bad....it should be one click on touch, and another on disconnect.
to manually control it you need to run a wire from where the purple wire was/is to inside the cab, it will connect to your momentary switch. the other terminal on the switch needs to connect to power....being that the switch is in tha cab it will be easiest to use something like the radio or lighter circuit.
Anytime there is power at the terminal where the purple wire is the glow plugs SHOULD (if the relay is functiong) be on, so just running a wire from there to the battery will cause them to be on 24/7.....think dead battery and toasted plugs
alright awesome !! but if its on a switch that i turn on by pushing it it wont drain the battery if i wire it directly there right? .. my wiring is already spliced enough haha
if i am understanding what you are asking, yes, you can run directly from the battery to a switch, and then back to where the purple wire is...but if your gonna do this put a fuse right after the connection at the battery so if the wire gets chaffed you dont have a fire.
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