glow plug controller?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Phoenix
before I did my full rewire (as in the whole truck) I used on of the blue crimp on wire taps from the lighter (so the circuit is already fused), ran it the 12" needed to put the switch down near where the glow plug/engine temp/water in fuel light is, and then ran a wire up to the relay...it would have been fine in as a perm solution...
not meant to discourage you, I just hate having loose wires taped off my batteries, and dont like having more wires than necessary going through the firewall....but honestly thats personal preference
as far as the fuse...pretty much anything will work...I wouldnt use anything larger than a 15 (a 5 would be my pref)...have fun and let us know if you need more help
not meant to discourage you, I just hate having loose wires taped off my batteries, and dont like having more wires than necessary going through the firewall....but honestly thats personal preference
as far as the fuse...pretty much anything will work...I wouldnt use anything larger than a 15 (a 5 would be my pref)...have fun and let us know if you need more help
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
relay is avail at any autoparts store...you can test it by jumping the purple wire direct to batt +, just dont keep it on too long and burn up the plugs....as soon as you touch the terminals you should hear the contact close (loud click).
as far as the switch, grab power from somewhere in the cab and take it to one side of the switch, run the other side to where the purple wire is, the purple wire you can tape up and out of the way...keep in mind the switch is not going to see a high load as all it is doing is powering the relay, so 14~16Ga wire will suffice, and you do want a momentary switch so it does not get left on (the $100 mistake)
as far as the switch, grab power from somewhere in the cab and take it to one side of the switch, run the other side to where the purple wire is, the purple wire you can tape up and out of the way...keep in mind the switch is not going to see a high load as all it is doing is powering the relay, so 14~16Ga wire will suffice, and you do want a momentary switch so it does not get left on (the $100 mistake)
and the only result will be a dead battery if you leave them on.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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marianna im only gonna be using motorcraft zd1a's wev already been through this .. stop referring us to these crappy GP's 8 out of 10 of my autolites were burnt so bad they were chipping away
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Phoenix
i did that for about a week before I did the button...just kept a short piece of wire in the glove box...do it for awhile and it'll make you feel like Mr. fancy pants whe you can start the truck without opening the hood.
Glad you have all the components working....it nice to know you have a $10 problem and not a $100 one
Glad you have all the components working....it nice to know you have a $10 problem and not a $100 one
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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yeah i shoulda done push button gps way long ago it was awesome so much better!!! i could give it a good 15 second cyle when it was super cold today and no block heater was used whatsoever
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
You should be able to fire it right up at 12 seconds max even below zero.
If you are that cold, keep your finger close to the button so you can give it a 4 or 5 second afterglow when it starts to stumble.
If you are that cold, keep your finger close to the button so you can give it a 4 or 5 second afterglow when it starts to stumble.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 375
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From: Phoenix
temp limiting has a purpose, but the down side is when they fail...is it really worth having to tear the motor all the way down???? the nice thing about the beru's is when they fail 99.9% of the time they can be removed without issue.
84, glad your liking it...keep in mind you dont want to go much more than 15 secs, personally with the zd1a's I go about 10 secs, and she will fire with a bit of stumble, another 3~5 seconds with it running and all 8 come to life and smooths out quick. Lowest I have had any of my trucks down to was 10* (sitting for 2 days) and she still fired right up this way.
84, glad your liking it...keep in mind you dont want to go much more than 15 secs, personally with the zd1a's I go about 10 secs, and she will fire with a bit of stumble, another 3~5 seconds with it running and all 8 come to life and smooths out quick. Lowest I have had any of my trucks down to was 10* (sitting for 2 days) and she still fired right up this way.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
Did I miss something? I don't remember anyone saying that a temperature limiting GPs has overheated and failed. Please correct me if I am wrong. All I've heard is that those dam autolites or AC Delcos or Boschs have failed. Everyone wants to ignor the fact that the temp limiting GPs will not melt at normal voltages. Dave S pointed out that with higher volts cross a resistance, higher current will flow which means at 24 or 36 volts the temp limiting GPs may fail. You can destroy anything if you overload it enough. I find it interesting that you will speak against temp limiting GPs in the same thread that you say limit the burn time of your BERUs.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 375
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From: Phoenix
It IS an electrical issue as dave said....keep in mind the factory gp wiring on a pre 87 truck will typically only show between 7~10v at the GP, so a 12v plug, temp limiting or not will not get hot enough to start in short order, and a 6v, temp limiting or not will only survive for short durations.
My point is simply temp limiting use resistance to regulate the temp at a specific voltage, the system was not designed for that specific voltage, so the result will not be what is expected...the system WAS designed to provide resistance in the wiring, and work with non-resistance (temp limiting) plugs.
On one of my trucks I am running the Bosch 80034's, and I love them, but I also rewired the whole thing to accomodate...while they would work with the factory setup on a cold (20*) morning they would need close to a 30 sec. cycle
The general concensus is with factory wiring nothing will top the reliability of the beru...start talking different wiring etc, and the game changes
My point is simply temp limiting use resistance to regulate the temp at a specific voltage, the system was not designed for that specific voltage, so the result will not be what is expected...the system WAS designed to provide resistance in the wiring, and work with non-resistance (temp limiting) plugs.
On one of my trucks I am running the Bosch 80034's, and I love them, but I also rewired the whole thing to accomodate...while they would work with the factory setup on a cold (20*) morning they would need close to a 30 sec. cycle
The general concensus is with factory wiring nothing will top the reliability of the beru...start talking different wiring etc, and the game changes