Yup its the nut with the 2 wires coming out. Does your tach work? You need to have a working tach or the E4OD tranny wont shift right.

 

also would the engine speed sensor cause the tranny oil pressure to drop. my mechanic hooked up pressure gauges and it wasnt getting enough pressure. but like i said it only acts up when wet or cold.

 

yea my tach works and speedometer

 

well if ur tach works then the sensor should be fine.

 

or could the drop in pressure be because it is in limp mode?

 

well that sensor is fine, ive replaced pretty much every sensor what else could it be?

 

Im pretty sure the tranny goes to max line pressure when its in limp mode.

 

so would you believe my mechanic is right when he says that it is internal like maybe the pump or a stuck valve? he has also said that it shifts wayyy to softly and is mushy in between gears.

 

I was actually thinking it could be a stuck valve. I had some problems with scratched valves in my truck in the past. Sometimes you can fix them but I ended up buying a reman valve body and killed the problem for good. My symptoms were temperature related and didn't affect all the gears evenly.

Front pumps can certainly wear out too. Its not an unusual event.

If you say the transmission shifts hard, why is the mechanic saying its too mushy?

Would you describe the shifting as a slide - bump?

 

he said its too mushy when not in limp mode, in limp mode yea its like a hard bump into gear. do you know of any cheap remans around northwest ohio?

 

when not in limp mode you cant even feel it shift its mushy it has no pattern when it shifts like it shifts in different rpms each time its really soft shifting.

 

Ok, I understand now.

When did this first happen? Did it start from one day to the next or was it gradual?
If its grabbing each gear hard when in limp mode, then I am inclined to believe that the clutch packs are still good.

The shifting at erratic RPM and speeds is a sensor issue most likely but experience showed me that sticky valves can behave strangely when they don't activate at all, or snag part way.

What I would suggest is to run the truck on blocks if you can and see if the erratic shifting still persists (the idea is to take load off the transmission and allow it to go through the gears without running as warm). If it shifts on time with the wheels in the air, its another clue that points to a stuck valve. Do not pass 60 MPH with the wheels in the air and watch out for flying pebbles off the tires. Do this test only if you can do so safely.

Your truck should have ABS on the rear axle. The sensor for the speedometer, cruise control, ABS and transmission speed are all one and the same. If equipped, is your cruise control working normally? How about the ABS? If one or both are not working, then the sensor on the rear differential may be a problem. Sometimes you can remove it and clean the magnetic probe to get some more life out of it.

Just to be sure, you did adjust the throttle sensor when you installed it? Ideal is 1V at idle and 4V wide open give or take 0.2V. That sensor does influence line pressure to some degree. I don't know if it alone can cause your problem though because I can't drive your truck to see first hand.

The best deal I hear for stock rebuilt E4OD transmissions is usually a ford dealer if you can find a good one. I've heard of some guys getting them for as low as $1200 but that might be with inside help. Dealers can sometimes charge different prices too so there is no guarantee that you will see a price that good.

Comes with a 3 year 100k mile warranty if I remember right. They also have all the minimum required updates.

 

well ford told me that the speed sensor was bad and the cluster because they were getting a speed code. i replaced the cluster and the problem went away for awhile then came back again. i parked the truck for a couple of days then drove it again and it was fine. then i replaced the speed sensor in the differential.takeing the plug off the sensor the tabs on the side of the plug broke off but i still hooked it into the sensor. at first the speedometer wouldnt work and the overdrive button came on i went back and tightened the sensor down tighter and the speedometer worked but the light still came on. so i parked the truck for a couple of days and took it to the mechanic. in the drive there it shifted fine. the mechanic told me it took two days for it to act up on him and it was throwing code 49. he said it was internal like valves or pump. i got it back and the overdrive button didnt come on till right after i washed the truck which leads me to believe it electrical. but this mechanic is the best in thew buisness but i dont know thats pretty ironic. my cruise works but in limp mode it doesnt. my abs seems fine. i dont know how to adjust the throttle control sensor. i really need an answer because this is the 9th month straight ive been having trouble with the tranny and know one really knows.

 

also,the erratic shifting and hard shifting gets worse as the temp raises.

 

Thats most likely a valve issue so your mechanic might be right. Electrical problems can be aggrivated by temperature, but they don't usually correlate as well as you describe. Once or twice the problem shows, then gets bad enough not to work and then it doesn't recover again after cool down.

What you are describing sounds like a consistent problem that occurs every time as the transmission warms up. Spraying the transmission with water or driving in the rain might be enough to keep it below that temperature thresh hold.

Assuming its valves that became scratched, the next question becomes what contaminated the fluid? Either dirt got in from the outside, or something internal broke loose.
In theory this could be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission, but it depends on what sort of mechanic he is. Sometimes they prefer to just swap everything out instead of racking up shop hours trying to track down a damaged valve.

If it ever comes to having to replace the valve body, I've used a VBX reconditioned valve body and it was way cheaper than what ford wanted. No problems since I swapped mine out.

The electrical problem that occured after washing the truck is likely unrelated. These trucks sometimes develop water leaks at the upper firewall seam joint. Water runs down the inside of the firewall and wreaks havoc on internal electrical systems near and around the steering column. The PCM is located around there (behind the driver's side kick panel I THINK) and I did hear of at least on PCM getting corroded from water getting in the cab.