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The short block is the same as an automotive engine, but the marine version would have a different cam(and possibly a reverse rotation verion), and it would have had a cast iron intake and marine exhaust manifolds originally but these parts would have been changed to put it in a truck.
explains the high rev it tacs out on the gage a three ouaters of the way into the gas pedal at 6000 rpm s and its not even at full throttle what about the heads im going to pull it out tommorow and see what it has for heads
Look for a capital letter cast into the outside/top corner of the head near the valve cover or between the first and second bolt. GT will be GT40 heads, R will be E5TE and T will be E7TE heads. If none of these exist you'll have to pull the intake and get the casting number from the underside between the inner intake ports.
i took of the valve covers wcp 351 or 4f13 are the only numbers i see and also the tops of the push rods are threaded the nut to hold down the rocker arms threads onto the push rod
If there is nothing there the casting number is on the head gasket side, so you have to remove the intake and and look under the intake ports with a mirror. Some examples can be seen in this pic.. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/...e5db1341_b.jpg
I have exactly the same engine in my Jeep. It is a 1974 marine engine that i got free from a mechanic friend that has a boat shop.
I had the low end rebuilt with off the counter parts from any autoparts
stores. I used a 1978 flywheel and clutch parts bolted to an NP435/205.
I then added an Edelbrock performer top end kit, 670 truck avenger, shorty headers and HEI distributor. Happy with the results i estimate 350 HP and 400 lbs.
D0OE heads are the old model 351 castings, not bad if you're only planning on a valve job and cam with less than ~.45" lift. Auto engines use rail rockers, never seen one with bolt-down pushrods though. I've got to figure that's an even worse set-up for any kind of performance engine...
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