Great work, looking good! I almost swallowed my dip when you said you lost 15 pounds. You getting rep for that one.lol love the pictures.

 

Nice work!

I hear you on the one man cab installation, but if there's a will,.........

Me thinks you are making quicker progress than I, it took me 3.5 years to get the cab back on my frame !

Keep it up.

Tom

 

[quote=gquinn8516;9221065]After some Gentle Persuasion - Everything on the Righ Side Fits!/quote]
FYI!! Watch your alignment very carefully when fitting the air deflectors and front valance/gravel shield, these front end parts move around like Jell-o in an earthquake.

 

[QUOTE=fatfenders56;9224408]Thanks for the heads up. I will keep an eye on that.

 

[quote=fatfenders56;9224408]
Man are you ever right about that! I'm test fitting front panels as I have custom inner fenders, and from the best that I can tell, the only place the front bolts to the frame is the two center bolts on the bottom center of the radiator support(and they have rubber in between that allows more movement.)??? I sure don't remember it coming apart that way, but it's sure going back together that way. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yeah, it's just those 2 bolts and the rubber pad, I went to the extreme ends of the horseshoe and drilled 3/8" holes right through the crossmember and used 3/8" bolts to secure it after the alignment is done. Try to level the truck before you start and keep the top of that horseshoe level while you are working. Attach the air deflectors and inner fender panels first and remember to only tighten stuff finger tight until it is all lined up. Then tighten in a cross pattern from side to side, top to bottom and front to back. Hope this helps someone, LOL

 

Fatfenders, that's surely how it's going back together. Speaking of the radiator support, I have the mounting kit and it has two "bumpers" in it. I drilled two holes in the outer parts of the support(one on each side) and bolted them to the support, but one is just kind of floating above the cross-member as the passenger's side is a bit lower. I think I like you idea better for leveling the support. Things are just barely hanging at this point as I'm "dialing them in." Next, the hood will go on to see where I'm at. But, I'm thinking I want to go "front tilt" on it. So, that's the next hurdle.

 

carnut, glad to help, if you have ?s send me an e-mail or PM

 

Hey All - Haven't been on much but as the weather gets colder and daylight gets shorter I will have less time out in the garage. The Truck is comming back apart and going by pieces to the Paint booth. Left rear fender is done and painted. You can see the placement of the Fuel Fill door. It looks good and the color is going to be an eye catcher. These are a couple of the photos. Box and Right fender should be done next Week. Then Cab and running boards go in! I am getting ready for a rest. Been working on it pretty hard to try and have the truck painted by the end of October then I can put it back to bed till April or May.

 

The rear fender and paint look great, how long before you set us up with more pix? The colour is going to look great too. I was hoping to be where you are to but things will have to wait until I get back to work and make some money to do it. Keep us posted, we like happy endings.

 

quote(looks good & the color is going to be an eye catcher)end quote That is an awesome color, do you care to share it? I am looking for a Titanium type of color for the trim pieces on my interior, yours looks real close!

 

Looks awesome good job.

 

The color is a GM Color WA382E Alternate 8, Pewter Met. I am using a Martin Senour Paint and that paint code is 54690 Alt 8. There are a lot of alternates which can look completely different in the light so check them all out. NAPA stores sell Martin Senour paint so they should be able to help you out. If not sent me a message.

 

Once you get the whole front end fit, the hood gaps just right, and your ready to pull apart for paint, drill small locating/alignment holes to allow reassembly. This is especially true if you have a flip hood. The air dams are the most important that they be returned to their postion at fitting. I drill 1/8" holes at the to and bottom of the dam as it covers the radiator U mount. Drill a small hole in the hood kit bracket where they can be covered by a larger washer when assembled. Go inside the cab and drill a hole just below the top bolt. This will relocate the fender in it's fitment spot. Drill a hole where the fender rod plate will cover for alignment of the fender/top valance to the inner fender. By using these alignment holes for reassembly by using an awl pushed through the holes to align the parts after paint, cuts hours off putting the painted hood on and having to adjust it and the fenders for the fit you had. Usually it's just a minor fender gap or hood kit adjustment and your done.

 

George, thanks for the reply and the info. Almost as soon as I posted that ? I was looking at my interior, like the color of the PPG primer, maybe I'll just clear coat the primer to get a nice suede/leather effect. The ''post to a thread'' option in my gallery is not working, but there are some pics in my Dash Panel gallery.