So I'm starting to piece together my front end rebuild. I'm pretty set on moog, but I have 4wheel abs and I'm not sure which bearings i want for them. I can get national/fm from work, but regular price is $325 each, with my discount it's still more than rock auto list the Timken for. I've never heard anything bad about Timken and am thinking about that route.

 

I'm not sure what brand they have for bearings, but have you looked into Napa? From what I remember I think they have a lifetime warranty? (edit: might only be a year warranty?)

I realize some folks here will not agree with Napa parts at all, but the Axle/Suspension shop I take my Truck to for all my axle and brake needs swear by them and these guys have been around for over 25 years. I gotten to know them well enough to know I can trust them 100% without question.

Question:
How in hell can bearings be so expensive?
(edit: oh,,, bearings are integrated into the hub)

Rick...

 

I got the ebay ones... came with all the necessary studs (wheel and nuckle) as well as a brandy new ABS sensor. They were cheap(235.95 a pair with free shipping), so i took a chance. I have 3k miles on them and they are working perfectly so far. Fingers crossed.

It was something like these:

PAIR FORD F250 F350 EXCURSION WHEEL HUB BEARING NEW 4x4 : eBay Motors (item 290393171272 end time Feb-17-10 18:01:42 PST)

 

I went with Timken bearings. The only reason I did was because I got them for $99 a piece from a private seller on Ebay.

 

I have a 2004 SD 4x4 6.0.

I am wanting the Timken front hubs, but they are out of stock until next week for the ones with the fine thread wheel studs.

Can I buy the course thread hubs, which are readily available, and just swap out the studs for the fine threads?

 

I recently replaced my front hub assemblies and went with OEM. I got 183K out of them so they can't be all bad (I don't know who the OEM supplier is). My last truck, a '97 F-150, all I used was Timken and was very happy with them.

If it came down to price (like you mentioned), I would definitely go with the Timken. I've never had a problem with them.

 

I can buy the OEM (brand unknown) from Auto Zone or NAPA for the same price I can order the Timken online from Hub & Bearing...they just do not have the fine threads in stock.

So....do you know if the course thread hubs listed on their site for the 1999-2004 trucks is the same unit just with different wheel studs?

 

Coarse threads (14x1.5) are up through 2002 and the fine threads (14x2.0) started in 2003.

I had to do some research on this myself as I thought it was a 7.3L/6.0L thing, turns out they started with the 2003 production year regardless of powerplant. I think that the hub is the same and that the only difference is the wheel studs. Ed (www.partsguyed.com) could tell you for sure, but I do know that 2003 started the fine threads.

 

I got the ebay ones before I did my Dynatrac. They did not even last 10,000 miles. Id steer clear of any from ebay or any that are made in china for that mater. My vote is Timkin or Dynatrac and be done with it!

 

That should actually be the other way around, 14X2.0 is coarse, 14X1.5 is fine. Metric threads are identified with distance between threads (thread pitch), as opposed to thread count.

 

I voted other. Dynatrac is the way I would go if I was born rich instead of good looking.

All these years, I never knew that. Good info. Thanks.

 

I have pretty much decide to get the national/fm because I have a discount at discount/advanced that brings the price close to the timkens.

 

As much as it sounds logical, I beg to differ. I'm pretty sure that the 1.5 and 2.0 are millimeters per turn, but draw your attention to page 21 of the following link:

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/pdf/GAG10.pdf

up to 2002 is the coarse thread (14mm x 1.5) and from 2003 on is the fine thread (14mm x 2.0).

I just push the "I believe" button. I do know that I order stuff that's 14mm x 2.0 and it fits on my truck (hubs and nuts) every time.

I was even at Pep Boys yesterday and looked at the lug nut sizing plate (where they have lots of different sized wheel studs to size your lugs, just like they have for screws and nuts at Home Depot), and the 14mm x 1.5 is a coarser thread than the 14mm x 2.0 which was noticeably more fine.

It seems likes it's backwards, but it's not and I have no idea why.

 

I'm under the presumption it's just like sae threads where instead of Threads per inch, it's threads per mm. the 1.5 is one and half thread in every millimeter and the 2.0 is 2 threads per millimeter. could be wrong, because I've never really compared the two threads using the numbers.

 

I'll beg to re-differ. We agree that early SD's use coarse thread. Page 21 of that link says 98(huh?)-02 superduty 14x2.00, and 03-present 14x1.50. Maybe some of the 03's got leftovers. If anyone's interested this link has a little explanation of metric threads as well as a table showing approx equivalent tpi of metric pitches. THREAD IDENTIFICATION CHART

Here's an old one from my '99 for illustration: