Im getting ready to pull my engine and have more than enough lifts to take the cab off so I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find a step by step on how to remove the cab, thanks alot!!

 

why lift the cab if you are pulling the engine? reason for lifting the cab was so you dont have to pull the engine. remove everything in front of the motor then there is lots of room to pull it out.

 

I honestly figured itd be a whole lot easier being that I have all the equipment to use, stripping the front of the truck seems like a whole lot more time consuming and parts coming apart, I could be wrong thats why im asking, the way i see the ford dealer popping these cabs off on a daily basis leads me to believe they would be taking the simpler way out, just asking, thanks

 

one tech from my local dealer told me he would never lift a cab if he was just pulling the motor, its like doing the same thing twice essentially.

 

I was at the dealer and they had one lifted, was pretty cool. My next stop with my parts was the two former ford techs now with their own shop. They NEVER lift one unless they absolutly have to, pull it out the front.

 

I have a fair amount of info on lifting the cab if you still want it. I can post it later today (after work).

 

I would also be interested in info on pulling the cab if you could post it thanks

 

-Begin by positioning the vehicle onto the hoist where it can be lifted. Roll the vehicle straight backwards just until you can open all four doors without hitting the posts of the hoist. Remove the rear seat (18mm nuts and TX-50 bolts I think). Remove all four door opening scuff plates by simply prying on them gently. Once the rear seat is removed, lift up on the carpet to expose the rear cab mount bolts. You will need a 24mm or 15/16" socket for the bolt on the driver side, and a 21mm or 13/16" socket for the bolt on the passenger side. Once removed, lift up on the carpet until access can be gained to the middle row bolts, just behind the front seats. You will see a rubber grommet plug to remove before you have access to the bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Remove both the driver and passenger side kick panels. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the steering coupler to the steering column, and once removed, telescope the lower shaft all the way through the firewall. Roll up the carpet on both driver and passenger sides to expose the grommets covering the front cab mount bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Once removed, this concludes everything needed to remove from inside the vehicle. Roll the vehicle forward to position it onto the lift.

-Raise the vehicle in the air to disconnect everything needed underneath. Begin by draining the cooling system (don't forget to remove the coolant degas bottle cap first). Loosen the plastic 19mm or 3/4" radiator drain petcock. Disconnect both front <acronym title="Anti-Lock Braking System">ABS</acronym> wheel speed sensors at the rearward sides of both front inner fenderwells. Disconnect the ground strap located underneath the vehicle, just behind the passenger side inner fender well (8mm bolt). Disconnect the parking brake cable at the junction just under the driver side framerail. Once done, fish the front cable through the body mount bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the shifter cable at the transmission manual lever, and the cable mounting bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the lower rad hose from the radiator. Disconnect the two transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator (you will need to remove the safety lock plastic clips first, and you'll need the special spring lock coupler tool to disconnect the lines). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid cooler to the lower rad support facing the front of the vehicle, and leave the cooler hanging. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the external fluid filter housing on the passenger side of the vehicle. Remove all plastic pushpins that secure the rubber air deflector to the lower rad support.

-Evacuate the A/C. Remove all the plastic pushpins at the upper rad support, and disconnect the main battery positive cable retaining push clips as well. Working on the passenger side of the vehicle in the engine compartment, disconnect the A/C line at the suction accumulator (one 13mm nut). Remove the one 8mm bolt securing the engine ground strap to the firewall, just behind the <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure - MAP Sensor">MAP</acronym> sensor. Disconnect the vacuum line for your pulse vacuum hubs. Remove the passenger side battery. Disconnect the main wiring connected to passenger side battery positive cable. Disconnect the ground strap that's connected to the negative battery cable on the passenger side of the vehicle you now have access to, with the battery removed. Disconnect the "squeeze and pull" type connection by the vacuum (yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire). Disconnect the <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure - MAP Sensor">MAP</acronym> sensor hose from the intake manifold, and move out of the way. Disconnect the heater hose at the passenger side, just below the alternator, where it connects to the metal tube going into the front cover. Disconnect the upper of the two A/C lines at the top of the A/C condensor (one 13mm nut). Remove both hot and cold side charge air cooler tubes (11mm or 7/16" to loosen the clamps). Disconnect the upper rad hose. Remove the two upper rad support brackets (four 8mm bolts in total). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the fan shroud to the rad and remove the shroud. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the entire air cleaner assembly (don't forget to remove the airflow restrictor gauge and disconnect the <acronym title="Mass Airflow Sensor">MAF</acronym> sensor first). Disconnect the main central junction box feed to the driver side battery positive cable. Remove the driver side battery. Remove the battery tray (four 13mm bolts). Disconnect two of the three <acronym title="Powertrain Control Module">PCM</acronym> main connectors (it will be pretty obvious which two). Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir (make sure you have a drain bucket below before doing this because it will be messy). Disconnect all lines (two I think both 18mm) to the to brake hydroboost, except the rubber hose going to power steering fluid reservoir. Disconnect the one of the two power steering fluid lines to the steering box, the one that connects to the power steering fluid cooler (20mm crow's foot or short line wrench needed). Disconnect the heater hose on the driver side, where it junctions into where it connects to the degas bottle. Disconnect all the electrical connectors on the driver side inner fender well. Position all wiring out of the way, in preparation for cab lifting. Disconnect the three <acronym title="Anti-Lock Braking System">ABS</acronym> HCU lines at the HCU and fold over (you will know which three I'm talking about by looking at them). Last, but not least, Remove the front two cab mount nuts on either side of the charge air cooler (18mm).

-Reposition hoist arms to the four corners of the cab, and have an assistant operate the lift SLOWLY, while someone else keeps watch on the progress of the lift. As the cab is raised, you will be able to address any forgotten disconnects at this point. <!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________

 

Taking the front end apart is really easy. I took the front end apart in like 20-30 mins, maybe an hour tops the first time. I would never lift the cab if I was going to pull the motor anyways.