Are there any checklists on what specific components to replace on the AC system of an 1996 F250 HD? I need to replace the AC compressor...it died...and have read that a loaded compressor is essentially a bolt-on replacement. Read to replace the orifice tube and the dryer as well...and it seems like replacing the hoses and O-rings would be a wise decision.


Any other "must do" replacements while I'm at it? Any special tips or recommendations to go along with this job?


Thanks-


Joe
1997 (old style body) F250 5.8 351w with 253k miles...still goin' strong!

 

A few years ago the FS10 compressor on my 1994 Bronco bought the farm. I did a complete firewall-forward replacement.
New:
Denso Compressor with clutch, all hoses/manifold, Accumulator/drier, Condensor, Evaporator (just took one side of the evap housing off to get at it), Cycling Pressure Switch, HPCO Switch, O-rings, Orifice Tube. Everything that refrigerant touches.

Figured I might as well, as many of the parts are not reliably flushable, and hoses age, etc., and I have no plans to get rid of the Bronco. I think it's coming up on 3 years ago that I did it. We use auto A/C here for many many months of the year.

I think my parts total was about $650. I used Rockauto for almost all parts. I think I picked up the HPCO at O'Reilly, Rock didn't have it.
PAG-46 oil from O'Reilly, I use the "AC PRO PAG-46 with ICE 32 Lubricant Enhancer", a compressor lubricant. I replace the oil that the compressor was shipped with with my own oil, I always do that.

The way that the compressor is mounted on mine, and the position of the ports on the compressor, meant that a full oil charge into the compressor, and then shaft cranked to clear cylinders of oil, put oil up to the open compressor discharge port as I positioned the compressor to the bracket, had to get the manifold on quick!
I didn't lose any oil, but it was real close to going over and out. If I had to do it again, I'd probably mount the manifold to the compressor FIRST, then mount the compressor and attach the hoses to the other components, but that would be very awkward trying to mount an octopus with inflexible legs that have to be routed just right at the same time!

I won't complain, though. Any vehicle that mounts the A/C Compressor high up on the engine is OK by me! Our Escape it's buried waaay down low. I don't think my '97 F-150 is up, either.

I'm not an A/C beginner, I have the equipment and knowledge to do the job. No offense intended, just a statement of competence.

 

I appreciate the input....apart from the oil/compressor issue, any other landmines or issues to be concerned about? Will rely on professionals for the vacuuming/charging...but the rest looks achievable. What about removing the evaporator core? Any tricks there? The condenser looks solid...and I'm going ahead and replacing all of the lines, as you suggest. Thanks!

 

I would encourage you to replace the condensor. Parallel-flow condensors are not flushable. A condensor is parallel-flow if there is ANY part of it that has more than one flow path. Some of these condensors at first glance look serpentine, but are multiple-serpentines in parallel, hence parallel-flow.

It was easy to change it on my Bronco. I removed the 2 top clamps that hold the radiator to the radiator support panel. I left the fan shroud on, and tied a rope around a suitable engine part and onto a coolant-return line that run across the top of the radiator, pulling the top of the radiator a few inches rearward. That gave enough room to unbolt and pull the condensor up and out. I used a couple sections of newspaper to fold over the new condensor (folded from bottom-up), so it's fins would not get bent up as I inserted it downwards. then pulled out the paper. No muss, no fuss, no draining antifreeze or anything like that. EDIT: some bolts/screws where reached from underneath, I had to pop some push-pins out to drop the rubbery panel that closes off the space down below).

For the evap, I saved the foil heat shield on mine by carefully pulling off the top 2 press-on discs that hold the foil onto 2 plastic pegs. Then folded the foil downwards towards the exhaust manifold. I had a MAP sensor to disconnect on mine, and there was a vac connection to the vacuum reservoir that was hiding under the foil on mine. I pulled the nuts that hold the DRIVERS side of the case to the firewall, and pulled all the screws that hold the driver-side evap case to the passenger side of the case. I did this AFTER I had pulled off the Accumulator/Drier.

With the drivers side of the case removed, the evap just pulls out sideways. You can see the blend door and heater core through the firewall cutout inside.

Putting the case half back on takes a little more work, as it is an acute angle, and the passenger side of the case wants to restrict you fitting it in. Just need to push it in, while pulling back the front end of the passenger-side of the case towards the fender.

The only Spring-Lock coupling on mine was the discharge Line to the Orifice Tube on the inlet of the evap. The less Spring-Lock couplings, the better! Will need the proper-size Spring-Lock release tool for it. I have a set, I don't remember the size.

I think the only part of this total changeout that gave me pause, was trying to figure out exactly which O-ring to use for the Accumulator/Drier to Evap connection. That is the connection with the big nut. I had to keep sizing up the old one with others in the kit, figuring that the old one would be flattened some over the years. This is a common problem I have had with Ford FFOT A/C systems over the years, selecting the right O-ring for that one stinking position! Often/usually, the new Accumulator/Drier does not come with a new O-ring. Hoses can come with O-rings, Condensors, Compressors (though I change out the compressor O-rings with my own after I remove the shipping plate), it just seems that the Accumulators don't.