When you drain the shipping oil and measure how much was in the compressor do you add oil to what you drained for the total or do you empty the shipping oil and start over with oil you purchased making sure it is the correct amount. Thanks for your help

 

Maybe an example would be best:

I did a total system replacement on my '94. The system oil spec was 7 ounces. I cranked and drained a little over 6 ounces from the new Denso compressor. I threw that out, and put in 7 ounces of new Pag 46 oil. After hooking everything up, I hand cranked the compressor shaft at least 15 revolutions to clear the cylinders of oil.

If instead this was a partial system replacement, the usual routine is to crank and drain the compressor, and whatever amount you get out, you put that amount of new oil into the compressor (unless what you get out is less than a minimum, in that case put the minimum into it). The idea being that in a previously-running system, oil distributes around, and there will be amounts of oil in the accumulator, evap, condensor, etc., and if you were to put a full system charge of oil into the compressor, you would be totaling up more oil in the system than the spec amount, which will reduce cooling etc.

In actuality, since a seized compressor is a common A/C fault, and it distributes debris throughout the condensor, muffler if there is one, orifice tube, possibly the evaporator, and the accumulator/drier should be changed anyway, it results in either replacing or carefully cleaning what parts can be cleaned, parallel-flow condensors can not be cleaned. So in that case, it usually means a complete system charge of oil should be put into the compressor.

At the factory, I have heard that the complete system charge is already in the compressor, they take off the shipping plate and connect up the compressor. The oil hasn't been in the new compressor very long, due to J-I-T inventory/mfg. process. On the other hand, we may get one that sat for a long time in a warehouse, so the chances of picking up some moisture are increased. I also change out the O-rings between the shipping plate and the compressor body... maybe that's going overboard, but since I've got the O-ring kit, why not?

 

Torky2 thanks for your reply. I followed the instructions that came with the compressor so I am good now on the oil question. I have another question. I have an f150 97 4.6 built in August of that year. It is also a Windsor engine. All of this seems to be pertinent to making sure all the parts are correct. I had to replace the AC manifold on my truck as well as the compressor a friend whose shop does ac work checked it and said those parts needed to be replaced. I am trying to save money so I told him I would replace the parts if he would vacuum pump and recharge the system. He said he checked the orifice and it was clean. I cannot find where the orifice is in my system. He said he checked it and some internet sites have suggested it’s in the compressor which concerns me because I could not get the bolt out or off the compressor holding the manifold on so I cut the lines to get the old compressor out of truck. Is there any chance you could tell me where it is located or refer me to a site? Thanks again.

 

The orifice tube is mounted inside the inlet line to the evaporator. At the firewall over on the passengers side, you can see the two lines attach to the evaporator's tubes, which are sticking through the firewall into the engine compartment. The liquid line is the small one. Need the proper sized spring-lock coupling release tool to remove the line coming in. Once disconnected, the orifice tube is slid inside up against a stop. It can be tricky to pull an orifice tube without breaking it. One can try by using a pair of needle-nose pliers, but they have to be extended-nose type, as with a regular pair of needle-nose pliers, the tube's inner diameter will cause the pliers to close down before getting a good grip on the orifice tube's plastic tab.

There is an orifice removal tool made for this, it grabs the orifice tube around its sides where there are two plastic tabs, a stronger place. Don't know if Autozone or O'Reilly have that for borrow in their A/C loaner tools.

You can try carefully with a proper set of pliers, have to grab the bail end securely with the pliers, and pull straight out, do not twist!!! It will come out with some resistance, the two O-rings on its body hold on.
If it doesn't come after a good try or two, don't break it! Would be time for a plan B then, like that proper puller tool. There is also an extractor tool for those who break orifice tubes, the tool may not be readily available, however.

Note which end was "in" on the old tube, so you insert the new one the proper way! Before insertion, the orifice tube O-rings and the female end of the evaporator tube need to be lubed up with the proper A/C oil used for that system. Tube must be inserted all the way until the stop, will only feel it. Expect resistance on first inserting the orifice tube, as the O-rings press pretty good against the bell-end of the female end as it necks down smaller.

And all opened spring-lock couplings should have new O-rings put on, and both the O-rings once on, and the female end of the fitting should be lubed with A/C oil right before putting them together.

I pulled the orifice tube out of my 1994's, after the fact, just to look at it, as I replaced the evaporator along with everything else. I was able to pull it out on the second attempt, the pliers slid off on the first (oops). If I would have broken off the plastic end of it, it would have been no big deal, as it was being junked anyway. This orifice tube looked pretty clean, which is unusual for a seized compressor. With the older R-12 systems (pre-1994), would usually see the Black Death along with aluminum bits.

Most compressor warranties have specific things you MUST do and keep receipts on, to have any chance of actually using the warranty. They always include replacing the orifice tube, accumulator/drier, cleaning out or replacing condensor. They want to be sure that particles from the dead compressor didn't remain in the system, to eventually destroy the new compressor.