Contemplating some major work
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Out the top but I didn't consider the front. My cherry picker is good to 9 feet so I know it can do it. Just don't know how much more work it will be to roll out the grill area. Only reason for considering it all is that I HAVE to do the oil pan gasket. If I am just doing that, can I just lift it up a little and be able to fully drop the pan? If I have to go way up and disconnect it all, I just figured I would pull the whole deal.
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Some things I noticed when I did my head gaskets:
The best way to work in your engine bay for any extended time(if you dont take off the whole front) is to take off your tires, leave the truck on a jack/blocks of wood and lower it to the ground then you can put your tires in front of your radiator support/bumper and use them as a step.
Do not reuse head bolts if you plan on keeping the truck for any amount of time! Trust me a PO did one side/reused the bolts and used regular split ring washers and that was the side I blew a gasket on. Also the bolts were harder to get out for some reason, 2 had so much rust around them they spun in the head like they were still in the block... and really really tight (breaker with a pipe on it... breaking a sweat). I know the $200 is hard to swallow but its gonna be worth it. I spent $1800 on my head gasket job that included 1 new head.
I only payed $700 for the truck.
The best way to work in your engine bay for any extended time(if you dont take off the whole front) is to take off your tires, leave the truck on a jack/blocks of wood and lower it to the ground then you can put your tires in front of your radiator support/bumper and use them as a step.
Do not reuse head bolts if you plan on keeping the truck for any amount of time! Trust me a PO did one side/reused the bolts and used regular split ring washers and that was the side I blew a gasket on. Also the bolts were harder to get out for some reason, 2 had so much rust around them they spun in the head like they were still in the block... and really really tight (breaker with a pipe on it... breaking a sweat). I know the $200 is hard to swallow but its gonna be worth it. I spent $1800 on my head gasket job that included 1 new head.
I only payed $700 for the truck.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
1800 for yourself to do it? wow! the new head was pricey huh? even if i use arp head studs, i will still come in under 500 but granted i dont have to replace a head. I have another engine on stand by for parts! haha. Good idea on the lowering of the truck though!
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From: Faibanks Ak.
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$175 for diagnosis and tow (diagnosis ended up being technically wrong)
$80 to time it after... I probably could have done it myself considering he didn't use a kit
400 for pass head
200 for drivers valve job and clean up
225 for head bolts
250 for gaskets including new valley pan
70 for fuel line return kit
$100 for stall/lift rental
I know thats a little short but I know I added it up when I first did it.
$80 to time it after... I probably could have done it myself considering he didn't use a kit
400 for pass head
200 for drivers valve job and clean up
225 for head bolts
250 for gaskets including new valley pan
70 for fuel line return kit
$100 for stall/lift rental
I know thats a little short but I know I added it up when I first did it.
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