Manifold Bolt missing

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Old 02-09-2010, 08:23 PM
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Manifold Bolt missing

'83 Econoline cutaway motorhome. 460 engine. Next to last exhaust manifold bolt, drivers side, is gone. Remaining bolt in flange for that cylinder (and rest of bolts) appear to be ok.
"IF" I can get remaining bolt out, could I draw that down, (using 2 new bolts), and get rid of leak. What about trying to use a gasket for just that hole. I have read many post about gaskets on this application and realize gaskets were not originally used. I know I am hoping for a short cut, but do not have good working conditions.
Can that head be pulled with engine in vehicle?
 
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:42 PM
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Not likely. The exhaust gases will have scored the head and manifold surfaces and probably warped them manifold. You will need to surfacing both the head and manifold and use a gasket.
 
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:02 PM
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Head removal

Thanks for the reply, Bear.

Second question yet unanswered. Can the head be removed w/o removing engine?

Ard
 
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:19 PM
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Yes, but you have to pull the intake first, then the head.
 
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Old 02-13-2010, 03:10 PM
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I would check the last one on the pasenger side to. This is one of the most comen problems in moterhomes (leaking, warped, broken bolts) on the exaust. I would look at a set of Doug Thorley Try Y headers.
Bill
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:24 PM
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I will check on those headers. I think at this point I am going to pull the engine and go thru it. Check bearings, new rings and do the valves. I know the previous owner ran it from IA to TX and back with leaking intakes. I fixed that in Dec, 07. Compression was not the greatest then. I brought it to GA Jan 08. Exhaust bolt dropped out on that trip. Have not run it much since then. I am cleaning and applying Eternabond tape to all roof seams now. Camper is good enough shape to spend the extra money. You will most likely here from me now and then on here. Thanks. Ard
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:44 PM
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Well if you are going to get into the motor there are many things to recommend. First and foremost is change the timing chain to one with out the built in retard. Perhaps a cam change. I would do a search. Be sure if you do a valve job you have new hardened seats installed on the exhaust. The factory seats are just induction hardened and all of the “hard” will be cut away when they recut the seats. I was in the shop when they did a set of heads for me. When the cutter hit the surface you could tell it was hard but after only a couple of revolutions the sound changed as it hit the softer metal underneath. I cleaned up the combustion chambers, unshrouded the intake valves and did a little work on cleaning up the exhaust side of the head.
I think Ford dropped the ball on the exhaust manifolds. They all flow to the back and the heat is concentrated there. The headers do a better job of flowing the exhaust and the Try Y improve torque.
Bill
 
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:30 PM
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Thanks, Bill
 
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:45 PM
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HEADERS PULLING ENGINE

I am starting engine removal tonight on the '83 econoline motorhome.
Planning on rings, valve job, etc.
Bill, I will check out what you mentioned on the valve seats.
Also am checking out headers. Those Thorleys sure are pricey! Anyone knnow of something less expensive that will work. AND fit.
Going to get a supply of band-aids. This old skins gets damaged more easily in the last few years.

Ard
 
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