Turned off my 1991 f150 4X4 auto trans. with gear selector in drive(maybe neutral, cause I was having some sticking throttle problem). Put it to park. Started truck later and turned key to off position and the engine kept running. Turned key to accessory position and engine still kept running. Switched from back fuel tank to empty front tank to shut off engine. Electtricity was still flowing even with key in off position. Removed key lock cylinder from steering column and electric still flowing. Put new key lock cylinder in and problem still persists. I can also now move the gear selector Park thru Drive 2 with the key in the off position. Anybody have any idea what I broke?

 

Welcome to FTE! This question should be asked in the appropriate year truck forum. These guys are standing knee deep in oil. They don't like electricity!

 

Yeah, I realized I somewhow put the post in the wrong catergory. However, I did delete it , but I did it on Saturday right after the boards were up and apparently something didn't go as planned. I reposted this question in the transmission area on Sat.AM.

 

Moved thread from Oil and Lubrication to Electrical Systems/Wiring.

 

If you have a tilt column, you probably broke the pot-metal linkage that connects the lock cylinder to the ignition switch (which is on the column under the dash) thru the tilt mechanism. It's a nightmare to replace, but the parts are cheap at Ford - like ~$25.

 

Well, Steve, I don't have tilt steering, but you were right in your assumption that the pot-metal thing broke. I took the steering wheel off and went into the inner workings of the steering column, and that thing was broken. It wouldn't allow the gear selector to lock and therefore, I assume, wouldn't let the engine cut off or the electric stop flowing. I got a replacement from the local Ford dealer for $11. I am having some difficulty getting it lined up properly for replacement. I am going out and try for a while again this morning,Tuesday. I am having a problem lining up the teeth at the base of the lock cylinder on the inside of the column with the teeth of the mechanism that the potmetal thing connects to via a pin that it uses to slide the "mechansim" back and forth as the key determines. Does the gear selector need to be in a certain gear? Obviously, the key must be in the run postion. Any advice on lining up these gear teeth?

 

Figured it out on my own. Wasn't that hard, like trying to solve a puzzle. Had to put the key lock cylinder in, adjust the gear inside the column with the key in the run position, then turn the key back to lock, accessory, then up through the other positions until the key lock cylinder seated itself.

Oh yeah, I do have tilt steering afterall. I bought this truck used two year ago and just now realized it had tile. Reason I didn't know is that it has no separate tile lever or anything. You push the turn signal lever backward and that engages the tilt mechanism. I wouldn't have known unless I had to tear out he steering column inards to see what my non-turn off engine problem was. It looked like tilt mechanism in there but I wasn't aware it had tilt.

 

Mr. Ed

I am trying to get to the ignition switch but cannot figure out how to get there. I popped off the front of the steering wheel and removed the nut that I thought secured the wheel on, but it wouldn't come off. Am I choosing the correct route, and if so how does the steering wheel come off? I do not have a tilt column. Any other tips that you have for the process?

Jon Blakemore

 

You need a steering wheel remover.

If you try and pull it off with brute force you could either
1)Break the wheel

2) Knock yourself out for a couple of hours from the force of hitting your forehead with it.

 

The ignition switch (the electrical device) is NOT behind the steering wheel! The thing the key goes in is called the "lock cylinder" and it's just the mechanical control for the switch, which is on the R side of the column under the dash above the pedals. If you're having a mechanical problem, go after the lock cylinder; if it's electrical, look at the ignition switch.

On pre-92 non-tilts, you have to pull the steering wheel to release the lock cylinder. On all others, the button is accessible with the truck fully assembled. Look here.

I usually pull the wheel by backing the nut off so it JUST hides the threaded end of the steering shaft, putting my knees behind it & pulling, and then SMACKING the nut with a heavy ball-peen hammer a couple of times until the wheel POPS up against the nut. Then I just back the nut off & remove the wheel. Anti-seize lubricant makes it easier the second time. Of course, that's kinda rough on the steering column...

 

Thanks Steve, I wasn't aware of that design change.