Dana 70 discs
Thanks!
as to your ID question, there should be numbers cast into the housing webbing and there should be a 70 cast into the actual housing itself. your best bet is to use an ID guide. like this one from complete offroad Axle ID & Information - Dana 70
of course you know pirate will have some good info... they even provide specific OD x ID numbers!
Dana 70 Rear Axle tech
Dana 70 Ring Gear Offset, 0.5in or 0.625in? - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
but i think this will help you the most...
Dana 70 Ring and Pinion Differential Parts - Drivetrain.com
-cutts-

I ended up using construction paper made a template then cut it out with a torch. I wanted to weld mine on to eliminate the spacer used on most kits.

I cut the mounting flanges off and welded my bracket right where they use to be. Welding on allows you to clock the caliper to any direction but you will want to try to keep the bleeder screw in a vertical position to get all the air out of calipers.
Calipers and rotors are from a 77 chev 3/4 ton front diff. Brake lines can be bought cheap from a stock 80's ish chevette car that i found to work perfect!!
Rear discs arent really a huge advantage the best thing to upgrade to is hydroboost.
I got mine from a 99 superduty and made it work. piston bore in master is made for rear discs with a bigger bore allowing for a large amount of fluid to be pushed with each stroke with the rear calipers now being much larger than your old small wheel cylinders.
On a side note brakes will be so good with hydroboost that your rear tires will want to lock up very easy and slide even at pretty good speeds. easy way to fix that is plump in an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear lines and dial down the pressure until u get it just right.
For parking brake i run a swagelok mechanical ball valve line lock. unlike a electric line lock it can be left on
I'm looking at these, whaddaya think? I have the 50 bucks easier than the time to fab them myself right now. https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...Bracket%2C-SRW
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I ended up using construction paper made a template then cut it out with a torch. I wanted to weld mine on to eliminate the spacer used on most kits.

I cut the mounting flanges off and welded my bracket right where they use to be. Welding on allows you to clock the caliper to any direction but you will want to try to keep the bleeder screw in a vertical position to get all the air out of calipers.
Calipers and rotors are from a 77 chev 3/4 ton front diff. Brake lines can be bought cheap from a stock 80's ish chevette car that i found to work perfect!!
Rear discs arent really a huge advantage the best thing to upgrade to is hydroboost.
I got mine from a 99 superduty and made it work. piston bore in master is made for rear discs with a bigger bore allowing for a large amount of fluid to be pushed with each stroke with the rear calipers now being much larger than your old small wheel cylinders.
On a side note brakes will be so good with hydroboost that your rear tires will want to lock up very easy and slide even at pretty good speeds. easy way to fix that is plump in an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear lines and dial down the pressure until u get it just right.
For parking brake i run a swagelok mechanical ball valve line lock. unlike a electric line lock it can be left on

I mounted mine at the base of my steering column in the removeable section cover. It made it easy for install being able to take it off and plug it in and tighten it. Its a very small piece the lock its probably only about 2 inches long so its very compact. Be sure to get 2 90degree fittings for each end so the brake lines to the master cylinder will run straight out the fire wall with no line bending. I paid about 55-60$ CND but its well worth it as it doesnt bleed off and its high quality! Its a cool little upgrade the first time I tested it out i used it on a steep hill and it held without a budge with a good press off the pedal. But what was also cool while decending down a hill you can actually apply half pressure to the brake engage the lock and if you have enough pressure with the lock on it will actually slowly coast to a stop while still on the hill. I use it ALOT when starting on a steep incline while wheeling with my standard trans. I hold the brake turn it on then just gas up motor a bit with clutch disengaging then flick the lock open again and im off without rolling back...
some pics of my axle build, I'll try to come up with a list of prices and such for the whole deal when I'm done



