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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 11:00 PM
  #1  
78250crewcab4x4's Avatar
78250crewcab4x4
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Dana 70 discs

So I'm quite possibly the worst searcher ever... I Finally got my dana 60 front and 70 rear to go in my truck and I "need" to put rear discs on it, I'm wanting input on who makes the best kit, and such. Not decided yet on Ebrake or not, price will likely dictate... Also on a side note, where can I find the serial number on the 70? thought it might be good to find out if it is actually what was sold to me Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 11:15 PM
  #2  
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i remember back in the day blackbird customs made a pretty slick disc kit but that was for the sterling series axles not so much the dana's. i am sure more will chime in with better info.

as to your ID question, there should be numbers cast into the housing webbing and there should be a 70 cast into the actual housing itself. your best bet is to use an ID guide. like this one from complete offroad Axle ID & Information - Dana 70

of course you know pirate will have some good info... they even provide specific OD x ID numbers!
Dana 70 Rear Axle tech
Dana 70 Ring Gear Offset, 0.5in or 0.625in? - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

but i think this will help you the most...
Dana 70 Ring and Pinion Differential Parts - Drivetrain.com

-cutts-
 
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 11:50 PM
  #3  
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73 ford guy
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I put discs on my 70 and I made it myself

I ended up using construction paper made a template then cut it out with a torch. I wanted to weld mine on to eliminate the spacer used on most kits.

I cut the mounting flanges off and welded my bracket right where they use to be. Welding on allows you to clock the caliper to any direction but you will want to try to keep the bleeder screw in a vertical position to get all the air out of calipers.
Calipers and rotors are from a 77 chev 3/4 ton front diff. Brake lines can be bought cheap from a stock 80's ish chevette car that i found to work perfect!!
Rear discs arent really a huge advantage the best thing to upgrade to is hydroboost.
I got mine from a 99 superduty and made it work. piston bore in master is made for rear discs with a bigger bore allowing for a large amount of fluid to be pushed with each stroke with the rear calipers now being much larger than your old small wheel cylinders.
On a side note brakes will be so good with hydroboost that your rear tires will want to lock up very easy and slide even at pretty good speeds. easy way to fix that is plump in an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear lines and dial down the pressure until u get it just right.
For parking brake i run a swagelok mechanical ball valve line lock. unlike a electric line lock it can be left on
 
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #4  
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Thank you both so much, I know that it is a 70, I can ID most axles in my sleep, but I couldn't remember where the serial number is stamped. When I go out and get the serial number is there a place to punch that in a find out exactly what I have?

I'm looking at these, whaddaya think? I have the 50 bucks easier than the time to fab them myself right now. https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...Bracket%2C-SRW
 
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #5  
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My sterling brackets are from Ruff Stuff, and we just put a set of their 14b ones on a buddies Chevy, it's nice stuff and more than fair priced.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 12:43 PM
  #6  
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Sweet, thanks!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #7  
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Look for a letter on your pot on the backside usually. If it has a U its a Dana 70 U with a smooth bottom but an undersized pinion bearing. If it has a B its a standrad dana 70 (the most common) and they have a offset of 5/8, .650. if its an old dana 70 (pre 75ish but dont qoute me on that)it will have the .500 offset and usually have 23 spline axle shafts. If it has a HD it will have massive 4" tubes but everything else is the same. My gears I pulled from a dana 70 U to put in my Dana 70 B . I just had to pull the pinion bearing off and get a kit for a Dana 70 B with the larger bearing.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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Well, I did count the axleshaft splines when I bought it, and it's 35, so I'll have to take a look at the rest, I did end up ordering these, so I'll try to keep posted how it's going, Thanks again for the input! https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...Bracket%2C-SRW
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #9  
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when youve got a 70u you know it. The housing looks awkward without the ribbing.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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trufies^^^
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
I put discs on my 70 and I made it myself

I ended up using construction paper made a template then cut it out with a torch. I wanted to weld mine on to eliminate the spacer used on most kits.

I cut the mounting flanges off and welded my bracket right where they use to be. Welding on allows you to clock the caliper to any direction but you will want to try to keep the bleeder screw in a vertical position to get all the air out of calipers.
Calipers and rotors are from a 77 chev 3/4 ton front diff. Brake lines can be bought cheap from a stock 80's ish chevette car that i found to work perfect!!
Rear discs arent really a huge advantage the best thing to upgrade to is hydroboost.
I got mine from a 99 superduty and made it work. piston bore in master is made for rear discs with a bigger bore allowing for a large amount of fluid to be pushed with each stroke with the rear calipers now being much larger than your old small wheel cylinders.
On a side note brakes will be so good with hydroboost that your rear tires will want to lock up very easy and slide even at pretty good speeds. easy way to fix that is plump in an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear lines and dial down the pressure until u get it just right.
For parking brake i run a swagelok mechanical ball valve line lock. unlike a electric line lock it can be left on
Hey 73 I like the ball valve idea, how do you have your's mounted? Where might I find one of them? I did a similar rear disk swap on the 8.8 rear in my 84 F150. I went with the weld on brackets, GM calipers, Ford rotors, and front studs.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #12  
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From: Victoria , BC
Part# B-42f2.
I mounted mine at the base of my steering column in the removeable section cover. It made it easy for install being able to take it off and plug it in and tighten it. Its a very small piece the lock its probably only about 2 inches long so its very compact. Be sure to get 2 90degree fittings for each end so the brake lines to the master cylinder will run straight out the fire wall with no line bending. I paid about 55-60$ CND but its well worth it as it doesnt bleed off and its high quality! Its a cool little upgrade the first time I tested it out i used it on a steep hill and it held without a budge with a good press off the pedal. But what was also cool while decending down a hill you can actually apply half pressure to the brake engage the lock and if you have enough pressure with the lock on it will actually slowly coast to a stop while still on the hill. I use it ALOT when starting on a steep incline while wheeling with my standard trans. I hold the brake turn it on then just gas up motor a bit with clutch disengaging then flick the lock open again and im off without rolling back...
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #13  
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Philip Swayze's Photos - Axle build | Facebook

some pics of my axle build, I'll try to come up with a list of prices and such for the whole deal when I'm done
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 11:41 PM
  #14  
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Philip Swayze's Photos - Axle build | Facebook

Finally done! for now.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 08:20 AM
  #15  
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Looks good Phillip.

We were talking earlier about which model 70 you had....

thats a B.
 
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