9) Want some tips to help avoid the problem? or make it easier when you go to remove Autolites? Run high detergent, Top Tier gasoline (google "Top Tier Gasoline"). When I pulled my plugs two weeks ago, ALL EIGHT CAME OUT IN ONE PIECE! Very little carbon on the plugs, meaning the gas was keeping the carbon from playing "Loctite" and locking the plug in place. By running a couple of tanks of gas through before the change with a high concentration of a CC deposit remover additive like Chevron Techron or Shell V-Power might do the same thing for you.I didn't do that by the way and I only soaked the plugs for 15 min w/PB Blaster. Here are the plugs.



I also ran a bottle of Techron thru a tank of gas and use some seafoam before I did mine (pored into the brake booster line). I can't say for sure that it helped but I didn't break one plug. I do remember the 2 plugs up against the firewall sure made a lot of noise. Good recap...

 

One thing to remember folks, that screeching noise you hear when the plugs come out is GOOD! It's a screech of JOY! When you hear that, you know the plug is going to come out in one piece. All eight of mine screeched like a tomcat with a certain part of his anatomy in a vice.

No-Tyme, you'll be interested to know that a highly place source in this problem (whom I cannot reveal until I ask him) told me that the odds against all 8 coming out is 40:1. That same source agrees that with no carbon, there is no sticking, so I am beginning to think this idea may have some serious merit.

 

I was going to ask if anyone had tried seafoam before attempting plug removal.

 

I did run a can is the gas tank maybe the same week or week before. I did not do the deep dreep in the vacuum lines though.

This is what I recomend:

• Harbor Freight socket set - rotating swivel ends (has 5/8 & 9/16)
• Locking extension (6"-9" forget but I purchased from Sears)
• Liquid Wrench synthetic (or other similar product)
• TSB - Print anf follow instructions (states engine must not be cold)

Optional:

• nickel anti seize for shaft of plug
• bendable socket wrench
• pull out antenna style magnet for fetching dropped bolts
• New COP's (you will already have them removed)

If you hear a crackling noise and it feels alot easier to turn, that may be the plug seperating. I only had 3 make noise. The TSB states to spray in the hole, retighten and wait 5-15 min. I waited the 15, so I put the truck back together (enough to start) and warmed to 1/4 (1/2 is full warm). I did not pull any with the engine cold. It took me all day (morning untill evening. I think I finished installing all the intake stuff on sunday.

Note:

1. The reason I recomend the swivel socket is because otherwise you will have the extension at an angle putting force on the porceline isntead of the nut portion of the plug. This is how the porceline breaks and then you will need to purchase the removal tool.
2. You can use an extension with a swivel end but it will not be a locking one and you may end up fishing for the sockets, assuming you even have long needle nose pliers.

 

Which TSB are you referencing. The latest one I have (TSB 08-7-6, APril 1, 2008), and I think it's the last one (correct me if I am incorrect) and it says in the first page caution:

"DO NOT REMOVE SPARK PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM OR HOT. THE ENGINE MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS FROM A WARM/HOT ENGINE INCREASES THE CHANCES THAT THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED"

I don't necessarily agree with Ford on this point, but it should be factually related to all what the TSB recommends and what it doesn't.

Along the same lines, the TSB 08-7-6 doesn't say anything about loosening the plug, applying the penitrant and retightening, just to go back and forth.

Finally, why new cops?

Or do you mean new boots? If so, then I agree and that's vital because not replacing them is likely the source of of many post-plug change misfires. Over time, the boots get thermally formed to the plug porcelain. When you break that seal (mine were really stuck on there) you create a path for spark to jump. It's doubly important to replace the boots when you go from Autolites to Champs because the Autolite has ribs and is smaller in diameter and the Champ doesn't. I have been told that the Ford COP can generate up to 15 amps. If true, that sucker will be able to jump quite a gap. Yep, when you do a plug change, you should do boots... the COP seem like overkill and an unnecessary expense.

 

When you suggest replace the boots, are you talking about the long spark plug boot that is ~$25 each ($200 total)?

Do you recommend using dielectric grease also?

 

I beleive this TSB is the one I used. I saved it to an old computer and I dodn't remeber which forum I wrote my original instructions on.

You don't want it overnight cold. It says warm in the TSB above. I am not sure if that is the katest version or not. You don't want it hot because the spark plug thread is steel and the head will expand less being aluminum.

You will have a hard time keeping the extension perfectly strait up. If it's at an angle "without" the flexible rotating socket, you will put too much pressure on the porceline and break it. I beleive OTC makes a long reach socket, so if you use this type then you want some kink of wobble type adapter on your wrench. I prefer the wobble on the socket because that allowed me to angle the extension.

Boots, no. Coil Over Plug (COP) is what you will remove to get to the spark plugs, so it is a good time to replace. Some people think it's a waste of money to replace before it breaks but how much will the dealer charge you to diagnose a check engine light? Anyhow you can get the OEM wholesale from www.oefordparts.com for a little more then dealer price for those boots alone. I have purchased plenty from them and saved a bundle. You can also get get Eccel from Jegs or Summit (or if this site has a sponsor that sells them, I forgot to check) for even less (about $225.00), which is what I did. You do not have to replace, just a sugestion since you did the labor already and they are wearble parts. How long do they last? I don't know how long did the older spark plug wires last?

Dielectric grease - yes, I forgot about that, sorry. I bought a large tube of Permatex. I sqeezed a good amount inside the hole of the COP. I also rubbed some on the two round hole plug covers. This made it as easy to slide in as a wet **** star. It also keeps out moiseure. Well worth the $6 for sure!

 

The TSB you reference, 06-15-2 (July 14, 2006), is the first one. There were two updates after: TSB 08-1-9 (Jan 8, 2008), and the one I mentioned, TSB 00-7-6 (April 1, 2008) Google for it, I don't have it bookmarked, just printed out.

Basically, I agree with you about the warm engine and so do many others. It makes so much more sense, given the dissimilar metals. Frankly, the Ford TSB is not all that applicable if you have the Lisle tool and there are other things in that raise my eyebrows. I keep all that in perspective by remembering the TSB was written with a certain amount of CYA politics. Ford came THAT close to a class action lawsuit over this (and who knows about tomorrow).

What you say about the flex socket makes sense, though I didn't have any trouble doing mine (but then I've changed about a million spark plugs over my life in just about every brand of car). I got to break spark plugs on customers cars to learn how to not break mine ( : < )!

I wouldn't (and didn't) go the coil route but my attitude is, "it's your moola!" And it won't hurt a thing. Might even help. Do the new coils come with boots, or is that an extra expense?

FWIW, I drove my truck about 300 miles today and it ran like a Champ (pun intended).

 

With all due respect......you guys as backyard mechanics don't have the proper data or research to say to do it warm rather than cold as it "makes more sense" Ford has developed a system to pull the plugs out....and telling guys to do it warm or use a different solution other than ford carb cleaner is quite frankly crappy to do to people who may not know any better. The ford TSB that is most current is THE BEST WAY to remove them......and its not just by trying it a few ways....ford pulled ALOT of plugs to develop that TSB....


Please don't take offense to this......just for those who might read this and not be familiar with the problem should know the proper way to do it....

 

if it makes you feel better, ford's message boards ( tech forums) has this exact same conversation going on all the time, by the way the best way so far is using a 3/8 impact

 

Yes, new coils come with boots. Do yourself a favor and look up boot and COP prices on oefordparts. Then call your dealer and get their quote. Then quietly say; ok, thank you.

It's usually one that goes and not the set. With plug wires, you had to replace the whole set. With the COP you can buy just one. The thing I look at now is, I ended up replacing the set afterwards. So when you do your plugs, you already removed the COP's. Yes, you can get more life out of them and yes you can replace one at a time. When I figure I pissed away $400 at the dealer alone and three days waiting around and got absolutely no diagnostic results, then spending $225 for new COP's does not seem like much. I look at it as preventative maintenance. It's no big deal when you break down locally but when you travel it really sucks. Then there's no discount on parts or labor. You don't have tools. How do you drive to get parts. To me it's cheaper to replace in advance and gives me peice of mind. I would hate to break down in freezing snow or in nowhere'sville.

 

I said to follow the latest TSB and tried to it.

Ford mechanics don't even follow the TSB. The ones that do, tell you they have never broke a plug. The ones that don't tell you that you will eat the cost of extracing them.

 

the ones that don't follow the tsb broke plugs following the tsb

 

And i realize that the TSB method won't get all of them out without breaking any...yes its a bad design and there are going to be some broken......But then again...for someone who hasn't done it often or may be doing it for the very first time.....the TSB is by far the best method to use.

 

Typo - the latest is TSB 08-7-6 (April 1, 2008)