Ball joint questions?
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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Ball joint questions?
I found on my 93 Ranger 2wd that the lower drivers side ball joint is a little loose and the truck has 100,000 miles on it so I will be replacing all four balljoints. How hard are these to change? Any other parts I should think of replacing while I have it apart? Maybe shocks and radius arm bushings? Where would be the best place for me to purchase these parts? I was thinking maybe NAPA auto parts? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks Bob
New User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16
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From: Panhandle
Ball joint questions?
you will need a press to remove and install them. Best bet, get them from autozone for about $10-$15, and rent the press from them. The rental fee is free, but you have to put a $99 deposit on it, which they refund when you bring it back.
On a 2 wheel drive its pretty easy to do. If I was you though, if you change 1, might as well change them all, so you can get a good alignment afterwards. Good luck.
On a 2 wheel drive its pretty easy to do. If I was you though, if you change 1, might as well change them all, so you can get a good alignment afterwards. Good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Ball joint questions?
I would check parts prices at Ford too. Sometimes they are pretty reasonable and the quality is good. Think about greasable versus non greasable ball joints too. If you will grease them really regularly the greasable ones are good but if you dont grease them lots....like most people...the sealed Ford ones are probably better as the seals wont let in water and crap as easily.
While you have it apart you shoul;d probably repack the wheel bearings too.
While you have it apart you shoul;d probably repack the wheel bearings too.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 265
Likes: 2
From: Cleveland
Ball joint questions?
Did both sides upper and lower on my '91 2WD.
It's time consuming, but not difficult(I am nobody's idea of a mechanic) As the previous poster said, the "C" press is a loaner tool. I replaced radius arm bushings at the same time. The difficult part I remember was disassembling the spring seat, since the I beam had to be dropped to free up the radius arm bushing. It's held together by a big mama 3/4" bolt and you better eat your wheaties and make sure you have access to a torque wrench that will do 200 ft/lb for reassembly. I found the reseating of the spring to be problematic too.
Had to futz with the first one to get it right, took digital photos of the other side before I disassembled it. Hope this helps.
It's time consuming, but not difficult(I am nobody's idea of a mechanic) As the previous poster said, the "C" press is a loaner tool. I replaced radius arm bushings at the same time. The difficult part I remember was disassembling the spring seat, since the I beam had to be dropped to free up the radius arm bushing. It's held together by a big mama 3/4" bolt and you better eat your wheaties and make sure you have access to a torque wrench that will do 200 ft/lb for reassembly. I found the reseating of the spring to be problematic too.
Had to futz with the first one to get it right, took digital photos of the other side before I disassembled it. Hope this helps.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 330
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From: W-S
Ball joint questions?
If you end up doin the radius arms n such, while you've got everything apart consider cleaning and painting the parts (springs, radius arms ). This has nothing to do with how well your truck performs but I saw one where the guy painted everything a standard flat black except the spings n radious arms were a day glow orange (like a traffic cone). The parts didn't really stand out like you might think, but it gave it a professional motified look. In other words, it looked cool.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 265
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From: Cleveland
Ball joint questions?
One more thing I forgot: if they have a loaner set of "pickle forks" get that too; found em very useful for gettin several things apart in the process. They look like big tuning forks and you pound on em.
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
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Ball joint questions?
i have done the same project to my ranger. i am a mechanic by trade so it wasnt too hard for me. by reputation the odds are that you need to replace your radius arm bushings also. you dont have to disassemble the springs to do this job. i removed the crossmember that the radius arms go into. you just have to support the vehicle by the frame. get a air chissel or you can use a grinder to remove 2 or 3 rivets on each side. there also is two bolts on each side. then there are 4 bolt in the middle. thats all that holds the crossmember. i found it to be a lot easier than messing with the springs and junk. i went to carquest and got my bushings and such. they carry Moog which are very good. the bushings i got had an offset center hole which is nice because this lets the alignment shop adjust your caster. they just make it better. it has been a few years since i have done it but i think all my info is still correct. my job cost me about $200.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 265
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From: Cleveland
Ball joint questions?
Sounds worlds easier to me. Like I said, I'm a clerk, not a mechanic. Was just following my Haynes "cookbook".
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Ball joint questions?
just so you know, if you cut off the factory rivets you need to use grade 8 nuts bolts and lock washers in place of them. my ranger has 170,000 miles on it and is still running strong. it has only quit on me once. it was because the timing belt broke. it lasted 145,000, but now i will change it at the regular recommended intervals.
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