Old RV prep
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Old RV prep
I've kinda inherited an 81 Country Camper "Gettysburg" 26' rv on an E350 chassis, and now need to make it roadworthy. I'm in southern CA right now, and getting ready to drive 1200miles to eastern ID in about a week.
This unit hasn't been used in at least five or six years, all the tanks, lines and traps are empty, so should I still dump RV anti-freeze in it, or should it be good to go?
The tires are new, and I'm going to do the brakes along with replacing the master cylinder before I head out. I'll be towing a full-size van behind it, but the weight is within the ratings on the RV.
This unit hasn't been used in at least five or six years, all the tanks, lines and traps are empty, so should I still dump RV anti-freeze in it, or should it be good to go?
The tires are new, and I'm going to do the brakes along with replacing the master cylinder before I head out. I'll be towing a full-size van behind it, but the weight is within the ratings on the RV.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: McKenzie River
I resurrected a old class C myself that had been sitting for 4 years, aside from the obvious mechanical go thru of the engine/drivetrain, you need to flush everything in the coach's water system out with fresh water........Oh, the nasty things that grow or are left behind by POs......Flush, flush, flush some more, then when your done, flush it again. Do a thorough inspection for leaks too while doing it. Speaking of leaks, check the coach structure for rainwater leaks too, can be real nasty surprises there too. I drove my "inherited" motorhome from Cali to Oregon.........at least the big breakdown happened in Oregon and not Cali!, that was a trip I will never forget!
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Yeah I would definitely run some bleach/water mix through all the lines and flush, flush, and flush again. You have a short time to get it ready for such a long trip. I would be concerned about the mechanical of the RV. A good tune up is probably in order. Check your brake controller function and trailer wiring, maybe tow something with it before the trip. Also check the tires for cracking and replace if needed. Basically just go through the thing and check to make sure everything works. Good luck, sounds like it will be a fun trip. 
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
The master cylinder is shot, the rotors are rusted and the pads are about done so I'll go through the whole brake system pretty thoroughly including pulling the hubs and drums so i can check the wheel cyls and shoes.
It has a 400 that is not stock. It looks like a 2100 2BBL on it, but this thing snarls like I have heard only one other 400 snarl. Hadn't been run in three or four years, and the transmission dropped right into gear so I'm not worried about that. I will change the rear diff fluid while I have the axles out.
There is damage in the roof, but not bad. I plan on tarping it when it gets home, so not too big of a deal.
Tires are 2003 models, but with very few miles, the outer edges of the tread face still have nubs so it's under 150miles.
It has a 400 that is not stock. It looks like a 2100 2BBL on it, but this thing snarls like I have heard only one other 400 snarl. Hadn't been run in three or four years, and the transmission dropped right into gear so I'm not worried about that. I will change the rear diff fluid while I have the axles out.
There is damage in the roof, but not bad. I plan on tarping it when it gets home, so not too big of a deal.
Tires are 2003 models, but with very few miles, the outer edges of the tread face still have nubs so it's under 150miles.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Millersville, MD
Tread wear is not the issue...it has been sitting on those tires are 7+ years old...(check the date on the tires) and they are prob dry rotted. And you won't realize how bad they are until you are in the worse possible place to have a blowout (Murphey's Law).
I'd replace them now where you can get a better deal then "on the road" where you won't.
I'd replace them now where you can get a better deal then "on the road" where you won't.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Found the paperwork- The tires were put on in 2005, and have ~150miles on them. At the same time, it got headers, 3" exhaust, and had the transmission rebuilt a few hundred miles before that. I did the oil change, and got the stuff to winterize it. I'll also be doing the brakes 100% once my paycheck shows up, so no chances there. Everything else checked out during my tests today, so once I seal a few cracks in the roof, it'll be good to go.
Once I do the brakes, I'll take it out on the highway for a few miles, then take it out towing the van before I go to leave with it.
Once I do the brakes, I'll take it out on the highway for a few miles, then take it out towing the van before I go to leave with it.
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Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Ossipee, NH
I've kinda inherited an 81 Country Camper "Gettysburg" 26' rv on an E350 chassis, and now need to make it roadworthy....
The tires are new, and I'm going to do the brakes along with replacing the master cylinder before I head out. I'll be towing a full-size van behind it, but the weight is within the ratings on the RV.
The tires are new, and I'm going to do the brakes along with replacing the master cylinder before I head out. I'll be towing a full-size van behind it, but the weight is within the ratings on the RV.
Food for thought.
Fran
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: McKenzie River
50-55mph, carefully driven and taking his time, anticipating all stopping situations........he should be OK, just not recommended for continuous duty.
Pretty much part of the Class C experience...........You aren't going anywhere in a big hurry.
Pretty much part of the Class C experience...........You aren't going anywhere in a big hurry.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Western Central NV
I would just take my time, drive slow, stop often. When stopped check everything over carefully. Air tires to max pressure if they are radials. 05 you should be OK. Dry rot is always a concern but just look them over at every stop. Most people I know that blow tires on RV are driving TOO FAST. Pulling trailers & driving motorhomes 70-80 MPH is TOO DARN FAST. That is the speeds that seem to be traveled when you get down to talking with those that blow tires.
Craig
Craig
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
All the literature with the RV, the hitch on it, and the tow bar all say 5k towing capacity. The van is 3600lbs, and the RV will be basically empty- no water in the tanks, no food, etc, so by the numbers I'd be good.
The one thing I didn't really think of was the fact that it's a tow bar, and this thing has the overhang from hell on it. I just know that I'll get into a situation trying to pull into a gas station or something and have to turn tighter than the setup can handle, and either break the bolts on the tow bar or damage the frame on the van to the point I can't just throw it back together.
So, new plan is to drive the van up towing a trailer, and then take a bus back down to pick up the RV by myself.
The one thing I didn't really think of was the fact that it's a tow bar, and this thing has the overhang from hell on it. I just know that I'll get into a situation trying to pull into a gas station or something and have to turn tighter than the setup can handle, and either break the bolts on the tow bar or damage the frame on the van to the point I can't just throw it back together.
So, new plan is to drive the van up towing a trailer, and then take a bus back down to pick up the RV by myself.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
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From: Bristol, TN.
All the literature with the RV, the hitch on it, and the tow bar all say 5k towing capacity. The van is 3600lbs, and the RV will be basically empty- no water in the tanks, no food, etc, so by the numbers I'd be good.
The one thing I didn't really think of was the fact that it's a tow bar, and this thing has the overhang from hell on it. I just know that I'll get into a situation trying to pull into a gas station or something and have to turn tighter than the setup can handle, and either break the bolts on the tow bar or damage the frame on the van to the point I can't just throw it back together.
So, new plan is to drive the van up towing a trailer, and then take a bus back down to pick up the RV by myself.
The one thing I didn't really think of was the fact that it's a tow bar, and this thing has the overhang from hell on it. I just know that I'll get into a situation trying to pull into a gas station or something and have to turn tighter than the setup can handle, and either break the bolts on the tow bar or damage the frame on the van to the point I can't just throw it back together.
So, new plan is to drive the van up towing a trailer, and then take a bus back down to pick up the RV by myself.
Towing a van falls under the same laws as towing a trailer, a supplemental braking systems is not just a good idea, it is the law in virually every state. Here in Tennessee, for example, anything over 1,500 pounds, towed behind anything must have its own braking system operational. I would encourage caution with this issue. The toughest thing, in my experience, about anticipating stops will not be your judgment. It will be the idiot who pulls out in front of you that will be the problem. In light of this, your plan to pick up the RV later, sounds very good.
Best of luck,
Steve
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