Brakes dragging

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Feb 4, 2010 | 08:19 PM

#16

CPUNeck

Elder User

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 864

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From: Fort Campbell, KY

Quote:

Originally Posted by sflem849

BTW, I did not notice a difference between the Hawk pads vs NAPA Ceramics vs OEM. Truthfully, the OEM setup lasted longer than any other setup. My gooseneck ATE UP the Hawk pads. These "superior" pads were coming off the backing plate and chunking apart before they were 2/3 worn down. Don't believe it, the box is in the back of my truck and I can post a pic.

Funny, I've pretty much gave up beating that drum... but couldn't agree more. The factory OEM HD pads ROCK! If the parts guy brings you a box that has anything other than plain cardboard with a little sticker and the part number, it's not what you want. IMHO of course.

Feb 4, 2010 | 10:22 PM

#17

BillyBob69

Lead Driver

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 7,404

Likes: 52

From: Wheatland, Mo

Quote:

Originally Posted by AIbandit

I was watching this vid from powerstrokehelp
YouTube - powerstrokehelp's Channel

I don't have the springs that pulls the pads out do I need to get these? maybe because it's an E99 I don't have them?

Yes and Yes

They help to release the pads and back them off the rotor a bit. And they are on the early 99's....at least mine does.

Feb 4, 2010 | 11:08 PM

#18

AIbandit

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Joined: Aug 2009

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From: Everett, Wa

Well I'm pretty sure that my Caliper is toast. I took her on a test drive she brakes great my squeeks gone but once I got home that one wheel smelled like brakes the rest didn't

This may be a stupid question but is it important to have the tapered bolt in the caliper pin? I snapped the head off of one and replaced it with a normal bolt... Ford's parts dept closed 30 min prior to the snap.

Feb 5, 2010 | 05:28 AM

#19

CPUNeck

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Joined: Dec 2009

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From: Fort Campbell, KY

Quote:

Originally Posted by AIbandit

This may be a stupid question but is it important to have the tapered bolt in the caliper pin? I snapped the head off of one and replaced it with a normal bolt... Ford's parts dept closed 30 min prior to the snap.

Are you talking about the bolt that secures the slide pins? If so, how did the head snap off (tight, rusted, damaged?) These meet a higher standard being a mechanical part of the braking system. With out question, I'd be at the dealer 1st thing for a replacement. Just want to make sure you know "why" the old one broke.

They are strong, and shouldn't do that.

Feb 5, 2010 | 11:55 AM

#20

AIbandit

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Joined: Aug 2009

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From: Everett, Wa

Quote:

Originally Posted by CPUNeck

They are strong, and shouldn't do that.

My torque wrench didn't click I guess I went a little to far.

You think it would cause uneven braking if I replaced the left rear with a 99.5? (though I think my right rear might be a 99.5+ already.)

Feb 5, 2010 | 12:21 PM

#21

sflem849

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Joined: Jul 2007

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From: SE Wisco

I only had a problem with my LR, but I replaced both. It was too cheap not to. I don't think it would be a problem to only do one.

Feb 5, 2010 | 03:31 PM

#22

DieselCamper01

Fleet Owner

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 28,287

Likes: 6

From: BLT, MN

Are you positive it is the regular brake and not the emergency brake? Those cables can get pretty rusted over time and not release properly. Just a thought. Good luck either way.

Feb 5, 2010 | 10:28 PM

#23

AIbandit

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Senior User

Joined: Aug 2009

Posts: 164

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From: Everett, Wa

I got the new caliper on there along with new bolts in that slide pin.

The drag is gone There's a large difference in how easy she rolls. New pads really showed how bad it was.

Good to go now thanks everyone.