Passenger side head removal
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
star, are you thinking cavitation? Would it flow in that fast? It would have to be able to let a lot of fluid in for it to start draining down that fast.
Polaris, so you did just one? what was the reason for this change again? I didnt see it in the posts in this thread. Was it letting oil in the rad? Just wondering if you did the right one, NOT that you dont know what you are doing but they both may have gone, just thinking outloud really.
Polaris, so you did just one? what was the reason for this change again? I didnt see it in the posts in this thread. Was it letting oil in the rad? Just wondering if you did the right one, NOT that you dont know what you are doing but they both may have gone, just thinking outloud really.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
It's a 6.9 so cavitation is possible but unlikly. I'm just thinking check and see which cylinder it is coming from and go from there. It is possible the other gasket is also blown or he got a bad seal on the head or it could be, and this is a big possibility the valley pan gasket.
When you pulled the head could you see an obvious blow out.
When you pulled the head could you see an obvious blow out.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Good old Oswego.
Well i'll try to cover all of the questions here haha. I replaced the drivers side head gasket last year because it was leaking but not into the cylinders. It was leaking on the outside and pouring coolant out the back side of the head. I recently started using/burning coolant and assumed that it was the passengers side head gasket. I guess i should have pulled both heads when I did the passengers side gasket the other day. I couldn't see an obvious blow out on the passengers side once everything was apart. I guess that should have been another indicator to pull the other head. I cleaned the head and block very good before putting it back together. Is there something I can buy to pressurize the cylinders?? Is it possible for coolant to run into the oil passage on the oil cooler?? It seems like I can hear the coolant running down on the drivers side of the engine somewhere. I really hope it isn't something serious!!!
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Senior User
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From: Good old Oswego.
I just went out and examined the oil cooler off of my other engine and it seems if the mounting gaskets are bad, coolant could leak into the oil that way. Wouldn't that mean that oil could get into the cooling system too? Would bad gaskets there cause the cooling system to pressurize when the truck is running? This was my initial clue that I had a bad head gasket. I guess I have to tear it back apart and examine the drivers side head. Seems like the only thing that would cause the cooling system to pressurize and the loss/burning of coolant would be the head gasket right?? I'm thinking I might pull the oil cooler off and check it too since i'll have the head off.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
If you are putting pressure into the cooling system, head gasket, cracked head, cracked block or cavitation.
Do you have a turbo?
If so, the valley pan gasket can let boost pressure into the cooling system.
Get an adapter that screws into a glow plug hole, so you can apply shop air with as much pressure as you can into each cylinder.
Also you need remove the rockers so the valves are closed.
Caution, when you apply air pressure, that cylinder will rotate to BDC, so watch hoses and fingers near the belts.
If you have the radiator full to the neck, when you find the offending cylinder the radiator will overflow.
So now at least you know which head has the problem and which cylinder you need to examine closely if the problem is not obvious.
Do you have a turbo?
If so, the valley pan gasket can let boost pressure into the cooling system.
Get an adapter that screws into a glow plug hole, so you can apply shop air with as much pressure as you can into each cylinder.
Also you need remove the rockers so the valves are closed.
Caution, when you apply air pressure, that cylinder will rotate to BDC, so watch hoses and fingers near the belts.
If you have the radiator full to the neck, when you find the offending cylinder the radiator will overflow.
So now at least you know which head has the problem and which cylinder you need to examine closely if the problem is not obvious.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Good old Oswego.
I'm not running a turbo. I'm going to tear it apart again as soon as I can. Guess if I don't see anything obvious when I pull the heads off I'll have them checked for cracks and go from there. I'm hoping it's nothing with the block!! I have spare heads so no big deal if it's something with them. I'll find out soon!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
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Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
That sounds about right crew, it definately isn't 3/8 pipe, it would be close in size to 1/8 pipe but not the right threads. If you have the adapter for a compression tester you can use instead of haveing to rethread something.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
With engine problems, I think I would skip the compression tester right now.
If you buy a good one, it is going to cost some bucks.
Even if you have to buy a glow plug, tear it apart and weld an air fitting on the case it will be cheaper than a compression testor will be.
Save your dollars for what you may find in the engine.
If you buy a good one, it is going to cost some bucks.
Even if you have to buy a glow plug, tear it apart and weld an air fitting on the case it will be cheaper than a compression testor will be.
Save your dollars for what you may find in the engine.