Passenger side head removal
#1
Passenger side head removal
Hey,
I was just wondering if anyone has successfully removed the passenger side head on a 6.9L with a body lift? I also have ARP head studs installed? I'm thinking there might be enough clearance with a 3" body lift. Just wondering if anyone has experience before I try. I think i have a bad head gasket on that side......BOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
I was just wondering if anyone has successfully removed the passenger side head on a 6.9L with a body lift? I also have ARP head studs installed? I'm thinking there might be enough clearance with a 3" body lift. Just wondering if anyone has experience before I try. I think i have a bad head gasket on that side......BOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
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As Star mentioned I'm running arp's. After removing the hvac side cover it's real easy to access all the studs and nuts. This helps big time when you reinstall the head because you don't have to put the stud in the head first, there is plenty of room to install all your studs and pushrods after you have the head in place. I use a 1 ton engine hoist to remove and install the head. I have a D-ring I bolt to the center of the head at the rocker bolt holes and this balances the head perfectly at the right angle too.
The other comment Star mentioned was the process for proper torquing. ARP recommends going through the proper steps and torque values, then loosening them up in proper order and retorquing 4 more times. So yes you would have torqued 17 nuts 5 times per side. But it is neccessary for everything to seat and "wear" in so the studs can hold the torque consistently. I ended with a torque value of 106ftlbs.
To remove the cover it is 6 screws(5/16 socket, IIRC), one nut (10mm) in the top right facing side of the cover, one bolt (10mm) accessed from the inside of the truck to unbolt the lower right side, a vacuum line, and a little metal clip that holds the halves together(you'll find it if you remove the other hardware mentioned first)
The other comment Star mentioned was the process for proper torquing. ARP recommends going through the proper steps and torque values, then loosening them up in proper order and retorquing 4 more times. So yes you would have torqued 17 nuts 5 times per side. But it is neccessary for everything to seat and "wear" in so the studs can hold the torque consistently. I ended with a torque value of 106ftlbs.
To remove the cover it is 6 screws(5/16 socket, IIRC), one nut (10mm) in the top right facing side of the cover, one bolt (10mm) accessed from the inside of the truck to unbolt the lower right side, a vacuum line, and a little metal clip that holds the halves together(you'll find it if you remove the other hardware mentioned first)
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Correct, it's tuff sliding off the studs, you'll run out of room. Just loosen the nuts and then unscew the studs using a hex key (5/16 IIRC). If the A/C side cover was left on you would have to pull the head with the stud (and rear pushrods) partially in the cylinder head because the stud couldn't be fully removed as it would hit the cover. Reinstall would be PITA.
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Hey guys, I did the head gasket on the passengers side over the weekend. Having the body lift on the truck helped a ton. The head came rigt off and back on without too many problems. So, here I am!!! I drained the oil out yesterday to put new in and while it was draining, I filled up the coolant. Went to put the plug back into the pan and noticed fresh coolant coming out!!!! WTF!! Where could the coolant be leaking from? is there a possability that the oil cooler gaskets are leaking?? Or is it the other head gasket i replaced not too long ago? I'm really frustrated now!!!!