The little 66' Ranger I bought a couple weeks back is giving me fits with the passenger door. It won't open no matter how much I pull, push, pry, or cuss at it. I pulled the door panel and everything "feels" to be operating correctly; lock moves properly, push button depresses the bar inside, and inside handle properly locks, unlocks, and moves the rachet locking mechanism. I say "feels" correct because I haven't yet pulled the seat so I can get eyes on it.

I was thinking maybe the weather stripping had glued itself shut from sitting so long. You can't really tell. Has anyone else experience this and if so, what was the culprit and the cure? Thanks.

 

The only thing that comes to mind is the push buttons rod being worn or somehow messed up and not pushing the latch release in far enough to open the door. the door lock may have got something in an inbetween mode as my door sometimes doesnt lock with the key...that can be removed from inside the door easily...giving you a small hole to see whats going on in there.


Aside from that Im just as stumped as you...did you try having someone hold the INSIDE door handle in the opening position(the long arm part should be downward and to open pull rearward...just in case...I would try to put steady pressure on the door on the inside with your foot...at the very rear about parallel with the window or a lil lower...so you wont cave the door in...If that doesnt work...try gentle kicks in same area...its extreme...and Ive never heard of a door being stuck unless the cab has been hit hard at some point.


- cs65

 

I've seem them stick shut from corrosion. Spay the latch down with WD40 or PB Blast if you can. Spray the part inside the door and spray in between the door and cab. if the truck runs drive it on some bumpy roads. If it doesn't spray it all down, roll down the window and work the handle and button once a day for a week or so and it should free up. I've seen this a few times on these good ole southern trucks. One just started working one day after being driven for a couple weeks, all the vibrations and flexing worked it loose.

 

May have to remove upper and lower hinge panel and loosen bolts to get some movement on the door, the lock mechanism could also be seized and not allowing tumbler to rotate. If decide to go this route make sure to mark location of the bolts for point of reference.

 

The flex is a great point...try finding a steep sloped driveway...or put a corner up on the curb which will twist things ever so slightly and just may be the trick...if it doesnt work one way, try the other wheel and see what happens...as for spray lubes...I highly recomend PB Blaster...wear gloves though as if you get some on you, it takes a bit to wear off...the smell is strong...your other half and/or kids wouldnt like it...I wouldnt use WD40...I did that years ago with tailgate hinge bolts ...took hinge off...cleaned up threads and then ran bolts in with a good bath of WD40...did it to both hinges and the tailgate support strap to bed bolts on both sides as well...when I went to remove the bolts...2 snapped flush with the pocket...and unaccessable on other side...a mess I still havent fixed...


- cs65

 

Get in the seat by the door, pull the lever up full and lean over to the middle and with your best lineman's blocking move lay into it hard & heavy. That should pop it open. I have used this method before. My current truck doesn't stick but I have had trucks in the past that did. They can go long stretches without being opened.




John

 

Is the door gap the same all the way around on the outside? Being here in the Great Northwest, we tend to get alot of moisture and I have had a few seize up to the point of using a porta power to open it. Sounds like the latch is seized to which lube it up, let it sit, repeat till spring....

 

This is a loooong time problem that has existed on older cars/trucks for decades, caused by loose screws on the door latch and/or the striker plate.

The three step scenario to open the door from the outside.

1) Put your hand on the outside door handle, but do not activate the push button!

2) PUSH the door itself...inwards...as far as it will go.

3) NOW...press the door handle button, the door should pop open.

Next, re-align the latch & striker plate...and tighten up the screws, because...once they start to loosen up, the problem begins.

1960/64 Galaxies, 1961/66 trucks use the same striker plates. There is a movable catch activated by a coil spring.

These striker plates and the door latches....should be lubed...at least once a year.

 

Well, thanks for all the advice. I tried every single one of your tips and nothing worked. So...
-Removed seats and console
-Removed door panel
-Visually verified the "ratchet" assembly inside the door was not locked or impeded by any part of the door latch mechanism.
-Sprayed EVERYTHING down with multiple brands of lubrication and so-called rust solvents (from inside the door and outside).
-Kicked it, pulled it, kicked and pulled it. Pushed it in and then popped the push button, pried all around the door.
-Pried from the inside with a tire spoon.
-Tried to cut the door pin from the inside with my sawz-all and a metal cutting blade. DIDN"T EVEN SCRATCH IT. That is some hard steel.
-Finally, I got a 1/4" piece of steel strap about 2" wide and 2' long. I slipped it from the inside of the truck between the door and the cab at an upward angle to come from under the rotating (supposed to rotate) locking mechanism. I set it against the rotating shaft and hit it with a 3lb sledge hammer to lift it up and out.

It took some hard swings but the door finally came open. It must have been stuck for years perhaps decades, based on how stiff the hinges were. It got dark before I could ferret the latch out of the door to see what was going on. I will report on what I find.

Whew.
-

 

wow...what an ordeal...how are the cab mounts on it ??? I have a couple of latches and catch parts and shims too...you will need a No. 4 Phillips to remove the striker and door latch assy. they all ought undo easily as Ive removed many over the years...I would blast the backside of the catch which you can nail from inside the cab by the gas tank area.
Let me know if you are in need of anything...


- cs65