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Just noticed a drip under the wifes 96 4.0 aero and couldn`t crawl under it in the snow to check it out but it was almost dead center of the grill and bout 10 inches back I`m thinking the water pump?does this water pump have that little weep hole on the bottom of it like i`ve seen in other pumps?how had is it to change this thing?it has 140,000 on it and as far as i know its orignal.
Sounds like the pump is going.
Due to the limited access, everything on an Aero engine is a PITA to work on. While you are that deep, you might want to check you timing chain for stretch also.
My water pump was weeping on my 3.0 for a while through the hole; and this past summer i decided it was time to change it before winter. Surprisingly for me the hardest part of the job was getting the fan clutch off. I didn't have a big enough wrench and it took some ingenuity to get it off. (wedging a vice between the fan blade and something else to keep it from moving, then getting the biggest adjustable wrench to get it off). Once I got that loosened, I took out the 2 small bolts on top that hold the shroud in and the rest was painless. Its amazing how much space there is to work with once the fan and shroud are out of the way.
There is a tool you can get that slides over the 4 bolts that hold the fan clutch to the water pump. It looks like a large 2-prong fork, and may use a 1/2" square drive. It holds the pump steady so you can turn the nut. To turn the nut, you need a very large wrench. Most auto parts stores will have these two as a kit. But the kit I got from Pep Boys, which actually said for Ford water pumps, had the wrong sized wrench. I went to Sears to get a combination wrench of the right size; it was expensive.
Don't forget that the 4.0 liter engine uses a reverse-rotation pump, so its nut has normal threads, while the 3.0 liter engine has a normal-rotation pump, so its nut has reverse threads.
That's where the water pump is, but check the hoses & clamps first just to be sure it's not something simple. My sons Mustang had a persistant leak & I replaced the water pump,(after verifying there was a leak at the pump). Turned out that there was another leak due to loosened housing bolts around the pump./ I torqued everything up to spec & the leak stopped.
One of my leaks was from the front cover; I think the bolt that also doubles as an anchor point for the crank position sensor cable loosened up from all the vibrations amplified by the anchor. That allowed the gasket to be compromised. Once that happened, no amount of torquing stopped that leak; the gasket had to be replaced. That required removing the harmonic damper. If you need to do this, get a long M12 bolt (I forgot how long I had to get) to help your gear puller pull off the damper; thread it into the crank after removing the crank bolt to give the puller something to push against.
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