GT40 Heads/Question?
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Navarre
GT40 Heads/Question?
I picked up a pair of GT40 Heads and 1.72 rockers off Corral.net for $410 shipped! For those of you looking for 5.0/5.8 parts, check that site out there's some good deals from the mustang guys.
I'm gonna put these on my 95 F150 5.0, with the stock cam and stock intake at first and see what happens. Eventually I'm gonna get the Comp 35-320-8 cam that Conanski recommended and a Gt40 upper & lower intake.
And now my Question?
Is there anything else I need to upgrade besides adding headers? Like fuel injectors, throttle body, different MAF, TQ converter???? I'm hoping for an end result of 300hp!
thanks
Drew
I'm gonna put these on my 95 F150 5.0, with the stock cam and stock intake at first and see what happens. Eventually I'm gonna get the Comp 35-320-8 cam that Conanski recommended and a Gt40 upper & lower intake.
And now my Question?
Is there anything else I need to upgrade besides adding headers? Like fuel injectors, throttle body, different MAF, TQ converter???? I'm hoping for an end result of 300hp!
thanks
Drew
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Calhoun GA
A converter and shift improver (valve body or shift kit) will make a difference and allow the transmission to run a little cooler. If you experience any wheel hop then slide a set of traction bars under it as well to help prevent driveline failure.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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I agree don't forget about the driveline , shift kit & cooler it it dosn't have one . Once you get to the point your breaking the tires loose you will get wheel hop , i like the cal trac bars but there are bolt on bars that are cheaper . Don't forget about gears either , they help alot on the 302 , if you have the 4R70W i would wait on the TQ converter , with the right gears you may not need one . With the stock cam you won't need to change injectors or your mass air meter , you have MA so you will have alot of choices for a cam when your ready....Lew
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Navarre
Thanks guys for the good info! This site rocks!!!
After I get the engine where I want it. I got a set 33x14.0 Boggers and a 4in rough country lift to go underneath, so 4.10 gears are somewhere in the future. I've never installed gears before but from what I've read, I may be better off paying someone.
My trans is a 4R70W w/stock trans cooler
After I get the engine where I want it. I got a set 33x14.0 Boggers and a 4in rough country lift to go underneath, so 4.10 gears are somewhere in the future. I've never installed gears before but from what I've read, I may be better off paying someone.
My trans is a 4R70W w/stock trans cooler
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
those tires will suck the life out of your axles and tranny. and heads/exhaust alone wont help you move those tires any better either. if you plan on staying with 33's then go with 410's but running a bogger tire i would gear to 4.56 at least. going with this gear will also help in the future if you plan on going to 35's. not to mention your tranny will love you more by having the axles geard for the size tire you plan on running.
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From: Navarre
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From: Calhoun GA
A stock single disk lockup converter can produce more heat than a multidisk lockup, even one with a higher stall speed. While the ECU still dictates lock-up schedules, a weaker converter can take longer to lock under heavy load conditions, which will increase trans temps and may lead to shuddering conditions during lock up transitions, or even ballooning the converter due to excessive heat. My transmission temps don't rise as rapidly as they did with the stock converter. With a 2800 stall speed and multidisk lock-up, it performs much better than my stock converter did and probably saved me from a trans rebuild down the road due to converter failure.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Earth
Bigger tire diameter lowers your effective axle ratio, your final drive ratio is probably closer to 3:1 vs. the stock 3.55:1 (probably) ring and pinion. 4.1 is fine for 33" tires, but if you've got OD for the highway go ahead and get 4.56 or 5.38 gears depending on just how big you might go on tires.
The extra weight is tougher to get moving too. For really big tires the 8.8 rear end is pretty wimpy. Check to see what you've got.
The extra weight is tougher to get moving too. For really big tires the 8.8 rear end is pretty wimpy. Check to see what you've got.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
that tire is heavy and an earth mover. it takes power/gearing to move that type of tire period. if you run a less of a gear you will be on the power more which will increase the chance of braking parts and your tranny will hate you for it. I would also discourage running any tire wider then 1350's on the TTB D44 or 8.8. you will increase the carnage for sure.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
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From: British Columbia
With the torque converter simply increasing the stall speed increases slippage and heat, I assumed that was being proposed as it is a common modification. I hadn't even thought about multidisk lockups. It makes sense that altering the lockup scheduling and speed will affect temperatures and durability.
It sounds like Blurry is up on his converters!
It sounds like Blurry is up on his converters!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
I personally wouldnt run a stall converter on an offroad rig. reason is you generally travel at very slow speeds and you need lockup early to get over obstacles. if you have a stall the tranny will load up, increasing the rpms on the motor and then launch you more or less. this will do many things none of which are positive.
for a racer, street truck this is not an issue of course.
for a racer, street truck this is not an issue of course.