upper ball jointstuck
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
The snap ring on the bottom ball joint must be removed before you can
press the bottom ball joint ouf of the knuckle.
You press out the bottom ball joint then you press out the top ball joint.
Press in the new top ball joint then install the new bottom ball joint and snap ring.
The snap ring sits in a groove.
press the bottom ball joint ouf of the knuckle.
You press out the bottom ball joint then you press out the top ball joint.
Press in the new top ball joint then install the new bottom ball joint and snap ring.
The snap ring sits in a groove.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
The snap ring on the bottom ball joint must be removed before you can
press the bottom ball joint ouf of the knuckle.
You press out the bottom ball joint then you press out the top ball joint.
Press in the new top ball joint then install the new bottom ball joint and snap ring.
The snap ring sits in a groove.
press the bottom ball joint ouf of the knuckle.
You press out the bottom ball joint then you press out the top ball joint.
Press in the new top ball joint then install the new bottom ball joint and snap ring.
The snap ring sits in a groove.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
i dont think the way they come out the top has to be gone to get the press in the bottom, i also cant find a snap ring for upper ball joint, im now in the proccess of ripping the rubber bushing , and cutting ion between the knuckle and beam, have the joint bolt exposed enough to cut, never done it this way before
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
Assuming this is a 96 F150 4x4.
Only the bottom ball joint has a snap ring.
If you're only replacing the bottom ball joint there is no need to
remove the top ball joint.
With all the work you're doing, it doesn't make any sense not to replace
the top ball joint.
Once you remove the top nuts from each ball joint and the top camber bushing
you need to separate the spindle from the axle housing. Some people partially
reinstall the nut on the top ball joint and use a punch and pound down on the
top of the ball joint. The nut keeps the punch in position.
Manual says to use a raw hide or plastic hammer but you really need a small sledge
hammer with a block of wood and pound on the side of the bottom part of the spindle
and the spindle will release from the axle housing.
Then you remove the bottom snap ring on the bottom ball joint and press it off.
Only the bottom ball joint has a snap ring.
If you're only replacing the bottom ball joint there is no need to
remove the top ball joint.
With all the work you're doing, it doesn't make any sense not to replace
the top ball joint.
Once you remove the top nuts from each ball joint and the top camber bushing
you need to separate the spindle from the axle housing. Some people partially
reinstall the nut on the top ball joint and use a punch and pound down on the
top of the ball joint. The nut keeps the punch in position.
Manual says to use a raw hide or plastic hammer but you really need a small sledge
hammer with a block of wood and pound on the side of the bottom part of the spindle
and the spindle will release from the axle housing.
Then you remove the bottom snap ring on the bottom ball joint and press it off.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9
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well had to cut the joint bolts on both upper and lower, i pounded and pounded like you wounldnt believe, nothing moved, i bent one press and shot another across the room, almost took out my leg, but now i got the knuckle off and the ball joints still in , going to friends shop with the hydrolic press, i was only replacing the axle shaft u joint but though since i was in there to do the ball joints, wow, lot of time but not much money in it, but new ujoint spindle bearing wheel bearing, and hopefully balljoints, i hope they press in like they didnt press out,
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,431
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From: Ohio
I finally got the driver's side knuckle off...and it, too, damned near broke my leg. I had to take a Dremmel with a carbide burr in it and cut the bottom nut off, due to the joint being so shot that it just spun in place.
I got the lower out of the knuckle quite easily with the press and a impact gun...but I, too, amd having issues with the top one coming out.
I have it soaking in PB Blaster and am taking a break for a bit...hopefully it comes out.
I got the lower out of the knuckle quite easily with the press and a impact gun...but I, too, amd having issues with the top one coming out.
I have it soaking in PB Blaster and am taking a break for a bit...hopefully it comes out.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
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on the upper i had to cut the rubber bushing and six sawsall blades later, cut the bolt, now i have the knuckle off and still the joints stuck in those holes, the chilton doesnt say anything about thread lock or anything about installing
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,431
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From: Ohio
There's no thread locker in there...it's a tight press fit!
I took mine up to Pep Boys and had them press the old ones out and the new ones in, as they have higher air pressure in their lines than I do in my garage.
I took mine up to Pep Boys and had them press the old ones out and the new ones in, as they have higher air pressure in their lines than I do in my garage.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
The threads on the u-joint ace. I assumed people would be able to figure out that when someone says "put thread locker on it" that they would put thread locker on the THREADS, not the body of the ball joint.