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I've never had an engine with a flimsy cover like that, but I can about guarantee that the torque spec needs to be kind of snuck up on gradually and incrementally. Start from the center and work out as suggested, but don't set the wrench to the max torque to begin with or it will prang everything.
Start at maybe 1 ft/lb on the wrench and do them all in sequence till they stabilize at 1 pound then go to maybe 3 pounds and repeat the process. Eventually you'll get to 8 or 9 pounds or whatever it is spec'd at in the book. This might take a while. Then, after a heat cycle and cool down cycle or two, check the torque and reef them back up to 8 or 9 pounds till they stabilize when cold or hot and no longer move.
Now you know why shops don't use torque wrenches, and customers complain about leaks.
Might suggest using a 1/4" drive socket - if you tighten it like a screwdriver (so the ratchet handle is between your thumb and forefinger), about the time you you feel the ratchet handle press firmly into your thumb, you're there. Not hard, just firm.
Right, but some people just insist on using a torque wrench for everything. That's OK too, but they will not like the result if they start at max torque.
The best gaskets are the original cork ones. They are designed to absorb oil and swell after installation. Coating both sides of the gasket with sealant will keep it from absorbing oil. You can use a little permatex high tack on the cover just to hold the gasket in place. Let the cork gasket do it's job without sealant.
Originally Posted by jason832
I like to use permatex's gasket maker. I think its called "ultra black" and says "maximum oil resistance". It seals well, its a bit thick and sticky like peanut butter and isn't too hard to get off later. I installed a thermostat last night and two tiny dabs held it in the housing no problem. I use it on about every cover I need to seal in a hurry without a gasket handy and almost never have an issue.
I'd spread a little on the cover and block, place the gasket on the cover and install.
Here are the torque specs for the 300 out of my 85 ford engine shop manual. Torque them from the centre out, make sure the cover is very straight. Only snug it a little more if it leaks. The bolts also have seals make sure they are in good shape or replace them.
When I install the pushrod cover gasket, I simply tighten each of the 6 bolts until the grommet starts to visibly "squish" and bulge a little at the sides. The rubber grommets are what press the cover into place as they're kinda like a spring.
You are correct that the squished grommets are what pressures the cover plate gasket. If you carefully torque the grommet bolts to 35 inch-pounds it takes quiet a few turns and the grommet is squished to where is sticks out well beyond the edges of the grommet washer.
The compressed grommet is actually stored energy that is reduced over time by age and heat. When people go to remove the grommet bolts from a leaking push rod cover they are amazed that the bolts are only finger tight and might think they need to tighten them a little extra when replacing them. They need to realize that the bolts where probably installed correctly and the bolts are loose because the elasticity of the hardened rubber grommet is gone. Installing the grommet bolts at 35 inch pounds is the correct method which won't leak and will never bend the cover plate.
11-23-2020, 08:13 PM
