As far as I know the cam did not change. I have a problem with these specs though.
5 more horsepower with out a turbo than without doesn't sound right even for the stock turbo, it sounds like the turboed 94 idi specs were downplayed maybe because the stroke was coming along shortly.

And another how can you use the same block and bore some of the metal out and it weighs 80 pounds more with the same crank and cam ? can there be that much weight in the upgraded oilcoller and the turbo wrist pins.

 

High altutude IDI's have both less fuel and retarded timing.

From memory a standard 6.9 was 175 HP, the high altitude version was 158 HP.

What 6.9 were they using for the weight?

If they used the early 6.9 with the thin block over the block heater, then a 7.3 is much heavier.

If they used an 87 block weight, then the 7.3 should be lighter than the 6.9.

In 94 if you walked into a Ford dealer and they had a IDI turbo rated at 250 HP that was 1500 dollars cheaper then a 7.3 Power Stroke rated at 215 HP, which one would you buy?

Strokes never made 250 HP until 99 from the factory.
215 HP @ 3000 RPM from 94 to 96.
225 HP in 97.

 

yeah,but look at the torque difference Dave.
you'll see when you hook onto something with your new truck.

 

she was searching between 2nd and 3rd hahahah.
iv got a feeling outside a dream,that would have made her scream just a little bit more lol.
i dunno,dispite all the comments about hauling slow,my test runs empty and knowing it has 360 ft pds just doesn't worry me....when im not dreaming.
can't wait to find out what she really has for myself.
im gunna run down today and ask the guy at the inspection station to just glance at it and tell me if there's anything obvious that he wouldn't pass.
my damn dump bed aint working,i think she's froze up,il have to bring it in,let it thaw out and then try bleeding it again.but if he tells me it doesn't need to work for safety inspection,then frig it.i'l have him inspect it or set an appointment,or run down to the other place in town and have him do it.
i wanna drive her already!

 

I am so glad we don't have to worry about inspections down here! That's at least one thing that hasn't spilled over the border from California yet!

 

well good news.
he doesn't see anything obvious but the minor things i already knew and doesn't have to test the dump.
so i just have to temp hang the two fuel filler tubes and bodo that bad fender for now and she should pass.
i know the brakes/lites/front ends all tight etc and the horn beeps lol.so should be all set and on the road!
he can't fit me in until next Tuesday morning.but thats ok.
i'l be and IDI truck hauler with ya all soon enough!
man she drives and goes nice down the road.
she shifts GREAT with that shift kit.nice and firm and to the point! but not neck snapping.very nice!

 

Sounds like your just about there!

 

You should not have to bleed the air out of the cylinder on the hoist.

With electric over hydraulic you have one valve and the pump with electric going to it if you have gravity down.

Power to the motor, no power to the valve, motor runs and the bed goes up.
Motor no power, power to the valve, bed comes down.

If the cylinder has no oil in it, make sure the tank is full, then run the pump.
It should raise the bed untill it runs all of the tank capacity into the cylinder.

I would them cycle the bed back down, you should get part of the air out of the system when it comes down.

Now refill the tank, run it up again.
This time it should go higher.

Repeat this until the cylinder reaches full stroke at max height, then let it back down and check the tank level, add fluid as required.

If the pump is running, a valve stuck open lets the fluid right back into the tank.
The only other possibilities are the fluid is not making it from the tank to the pump or the pump is not pumping.

One more thing, do you only have one hydraulic hose hooked to the bottom of the cylinder?
That would be how a gravity down system should be plumbed.
The port on the top of the cylinder should also have a breather to let air in and out of the cylinder.
A plug in the top port would make it compress the air in that end of the cylinder, not real good for the seals.

 

its power up/power down.
one line coming out of the bottom of the pump going into the top of the cylinder.the other on the top of the pump going into the bottom of the cylinder.
the other day when i first filled it,it started to work,though slow.
i cracked the top line at the pump,and pressed up,and nothings coming out.
so i took the line off and tried again.it's not pumping at all.
i figure there may have been water in the pump,as the last truck this was on,was in a fire.the cap on the pump reservoir melted away,and iv got a feeling it may have been sprayed putting the fire out.they may then have raised or lowered the bed injecting who knows what into the cylinder.when i lowered the bed,this flushed the crap into my freshly flushed and cleaned trans fluid and turned it into a light pink color.
its well below freezing,so i dunno.im going to bring it inside tomorrow/empty it and let it warm up.the good news is,at least i pumped out the cylinder now i guess and it should be clean.
as far as i know,the cap on the reservoir is the only breather in this style system?

 

If it is power up and down, then yes, the only breather should be the reservoir cap. If water got into it though, it may have caused you grief inside though. Hopefully there wasn't much, and no real damage has occurred. On mine (single stage electric hydraulic) when it gets really cold it has a hard time sucking enough oil once it gets partway, I've debated about dumping a bit of diesel fuel in to help thin the ATF fluid a little bit. Part of the issue on mine is the ram size, since it is a much bigger one than the pump had capacity on the reservoir, I had to remove the breather and plumb it to an extra reservoir tank, and that line should have been slightly bigger.

If this is the standard/typical electric/hydraulic power pack, draining than taking off the reservoir container exposes a suction inlet (similar to a fuel tank inlet) that, on mine at least, also contains a valve for releasing the oil to lower the cylinder. I can't recall how much of the pump itself is visible at that point. There's a large o-ring that forms the seal between the pump body and the neck of the reservoir, so be careful not to damage it.

 

well iv got her off and inside warming up.i hope this frees it up if it is just ice in there.
im hoping i dont have to take it apart.
i dumped the trans fluid out,and it looked really pink rather than red.real gelly too with temps in the teens.
i can't really test it off the bed can i?
i dont have any other hydraulic lines around.

 

Aye, my 7.3 says on the valve cover 185HP @ 3300 or H/A 166HP. No big worries tho start my new job soon and ill get a pyro on the way and start playing with it. Also, theres a machine shop not too far from where i live, and since were in the sticks he also acts as a diesel mechanic and just happens to have the setup to be able to time these, thinkin 2* more advanced than spec. Thats usually what i run on my gassers, anyone see a problem with this?

 

yeah I have the 4:10 t19 and only average bout 50 mph lol people hate me I think my record is 11 cars and a semi? but I get 18-20 .. less when im plowin tho

 

2 degrees may be a bit much, 8.5 at 2000 RPM is usually about right.

My method, Power Stroke rattle when the timing advance is on, no rattle when it kicks off.

 

i dont know mine cause i dont have a tack lol