When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just pulled the left head off a 1976 360 engine in an F250 3/4 ton 2WD. In-between the head and the block there was a spacer and no gasket. At least I could not find the old gasket. There was a gasket in-between the input manifold and the head. However, there was only what appears to be another metal spacer between the head and the exhaust manifold with no gasket. Concerning the head to block gasket, I picked up the normal one for this engine prior to removal. Right now I am waiting for Kragen to get the spacer. My questions, is this spacer supposed to be put in without a gasket ? If I use a gasket and the spacer which side of the spacer does the gasket go ? I have talked to a few mechanics. Some say that maybe they used a spacer with no gasket. Others have said use a gasket on top of the spacer while another said use 2 gaskets one on each side of the spacer. We suspect the original owner (passed away) had some type of performance modification done to the engine due to trailer hauling.
The first thing you need to to is pull the other head and see if it's got the same "spacer". I'm betting it does. Now check and see if your "spacer" is actually a copper head gasket. You can do this by grinding a bit off a corner. If it is copper, some people say they can be reused, but I'd put in regular gaskets. If you don't pull the other head, you might have more compression on one side than on the other because your new gasket will compress. Whatever you decide, the gaskets need to match so you have the same compression ratios on either side of the engine.
The old "spacer" was bad. Rusting and broke in one place. Water was leaking into the combustion chambers and getting into the oil. I just cut a section of the "spacer" and it is not copper and definitly steel or tin. Is it possible that the head was resurfaced previously and a spacer had to be used to compensate ? The 1976 engine has about 136 k on it and all the freeze plugs rusted out and had to be changed. Not looking to get it back to new performance just trying to get it running half way decently for 10 or 20 k miles.
It is possible the previous owner shimmed the head to make up for the milling job. Is the other head shimmed up the same way? How thick is the spacer? What are the casting numbers on the heads? Flat-top pistons? Keep the info coming! We'll get something figured out!
The spacer is 0.020 inches thick. When I went to order the gasket from Auto Zone their parts computer also showed the spacer but we assumed I would need the gasket. After removing the spacer I went back to them and tried to order the spacer. They could not get it from their distributor. Have it on order threw Kragen. But at least for the 360 engine a 0.020 spacer is orderable through Kragens distributor. The numbers stamped on the head are "D2TEAA" also have a "203" and a "26". There is also a wierd circle pattern of single digit numbers. I will be swapping this head out for a rebuilt one in a few months. Just trying to get the car to pass california smog right now. Kinda pressed for time.
It was not uncommon to install multi gaskets or spacers to get a "working" engine to run without detonation. You were lowering the compression ratio. We ran into this when we took the lead out of gas, lowered the octane. Anything to get by. fwiw, ray
The head on this side of the engine had 2 major problems. The bad spacer causing water leaks (can see the rust marks on the head and block surface where water was travelling) and there was a cracked exhaust valve (replaced). The lower chambers and pistons look fine. So the engine should run better if I can just figure out how to setup the gasket/spacer on this head. It appears that originally there was only a 0.020 inch spacer with no gasket. Would adding a gasket above the new spacer be advisable ?
Also, the pistons are not flat topped. Have some wierd two circle patterns in them. Looks like the end of a pair of binoculars. With a center ridge. Definitly some type of milling pattern.
What you have is an engine that was never torn down for any reason. Ford never used a composition gasket between the head & block. What you think is a "spacer" is actually the factory steel shim head gasket. The same goes for the exhaust manifold. Ford never used gaskets between the head & exh. manifold on the FE's, instead they used a steel gasket\heat shield. The pistons you have are factory. They are supposed to look like that.
Thanks for the info. Can I install a regular composite gasket ? Thats what Auto Zone sold me by looking up the 360 in their parts computer ? Yes, it definitly makes sense that these heads were never torn down. Especially when I examined the condition of the steel shim head gasket.
You sure can. They will do just fine. They work well on heads that have not been resurfaced, whereas the steel shim gaskets won't. Just be sure the heads are not warped or cracked, and make sure they are really clean.
D.B. is on target here. One additional caution. While your shim gasket is .020 inch thick, the composition type is about .047. This will increase your valve lash. Ensure you have about .090 inch lash with the lifters collapsed. If lash is significantly more you may have to resort to overlong push rods. They come plus or minus .060.
Thanks for all your help. I put in the composition gasket and just had the truck california smog checked today. It passed real good. Looks like this old truck still has some live in it. Thanks alot !
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.