Hi,I posted in this in the trans section but didn't get much feedback... hoping someone here could relate to my situation. Kind of new to the forum but been around here long enough to know there are some really smart people here... hoping to find some tranny gurus here.
Here's the situation. I just bought a 99 f150 5.4l, not sure which trans, it has the 20 bolt pan though. It has 65k on it and has been babied by an old guy. The truck is in great shape, only problem is some hard shifting. It really only occurs when i accelerate easy... and usually from 2nd to 3rd, occasionally from 1st to 2nd, if I'm really easy on the gas. You can kind of feel a bump and it kicks in. the 2nd to 3rd usually occurs around 35mph to 40mph. Also if I'm cruising at this speed, let off the gas and ease it back on. Also kind of seems like the truck has a hard time deciding what gear to be in between 34mph to 45mph. But if i hit the gas harder it shifts smooth through all gears. According to the previous owners records the filter and fluid... including transfer case were replaced about 20k ago... but since he didn't drive much that was in 2006. Don't know if the fluid will go through a natural degradation with time, I would assume it might. The fluid looks pretty good, doesn't smell burnt (i have a 98 taurus with toasted fluid, so i know it doesn't smell like that). Fluid is darker than brand new, but not bad... kind of has a funky smell, not exactly sure what its supposed to smell like. I'm thinking a sensor, not thinking a "real trans" problem, just because its not an all the time thing. I changed out the tps , and did notice a better idle after this change, but not any different on the shifting. Other ideas I had were speed sensor, and i read about some other tranny sensors on other threads that might be worth looking at. But you all would know better than i would. I took the connector off the vss today and it was kind of wet or greasy inside, but don't know how to test it. the hard shifts don't feel like its tearing the truck apart but is very noticable and want to get it handled before it does any damage... If you need more info just let me know... and thanks in advance. And I know a bit about working on cars, not a ton... so if I ask stupid questions I apologize. Forgot to mention... no check engine light and no stored codes. I think I'll get the tranny fluid changed tomorrow and see if that helps, have read that these transmissions really like new fresh fluid. Anything you can tell me would be great.<!-- / message --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig -->

 

was there dielectric grease in the vss or was it water?

 

When I pulled the connector off it was starting to get dark and I didn't have a great light with me. It looked wet, but i touched it and it felt kind of greasy.

 

this might sound stupid but how long have you been driving this truck?

 

I just bought it about two weeks ago. And been driving around town and 80 miles each way to work. Its great out on the freeway, but its kind of a pain around town, I feel like I have to feather in the the pedal around 30mph-45mph or else it will get the jerk/kick shift... I guy on the trans forum said he had similar issues with old fluid that he thought had broken down and he recommended I get it service... not a bad idea seeing that the fluid is 4 years old and 20k miles.

 

couldn't hurt, the reason I was wondering was because it sounds like the trans hasn't adapted almost like your keep alive memory keeps erasing

 

I'm sorry, but I'm not sure if i understand what you mean. I think you are saying that the computer isn't keeping a record of how the whole system is working? correct me if I'm wrong. I think the computer is fine. I've reset the memory after cleaning the Maf sensor, Iac valve, and putting on the new tps. I have a code scanner and it shows that there are no codes and that the computer is running its (for lack of a better term) self diaganostics test... ex. O2 sensors, and all the other emissions type stuff. I'm hoping for a good result from the fluid change...I already know that the fluid is 4 years old and has 20k on... and there's really no telling what kind of qualitiy fluid it was in the first place... by the way what kind of fluid would you recommend I have put in at the shop... without breaking the bank.
Thanks for the posts

 

you want to use merc v, your trans has an adaptive learning table I was thinking if you had just bought it yesterday that could be the cause but since you put alot of miles everyday I doubt that is the cause

 

Engagement Concern: Harsh Forward Only
NOTE: Vehicles equipped with an OSS sensor will have new adaptive shift strategies. Whenever the vehicles battery has been disconnected for any type of service or repairs the strategy parameters that are stored in the keep alive memory (KAM) will be lost. The strategy will start to learn once the battery is reconnected and the vehicle is driven. This is a normal condition and will go away once the PCM learns all the parameters from the driving conditions. There is no time frame set to this learning process. If this concern is present during down shifts or converter clutch apply, it is not the shift strategy and will require diagnosis as outlined in the workshop manual.
The customer needs to be notified that they may experience slightly different upshifts either soft or firm and that this condition is normal and will eventually go away.
Possible Components Reference/Action
204 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Powertrain Control System
Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, PCM, throttle position sensor, TSS, OSS, ABS electronic pressure control
Run On-Board Diagnostics. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for diagnosis. Perform Engagement Test, Electronic Pressure Control Test. Perform Pinpoint Test E using Transmission Tester and Cable and Overlay as outlined in this section. Repair/replace as required. Clear codes, road test, rerun On-Board Diagnostics.

304 HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Improper Pressures
High line pressure
Check pressure at line pressure tap. Perform Line Pressure and Stall Speed Tests. Refer to the Line Pressure Chart for specification. If pressures are high, check main controls.

Main Controls
Bolts not tightened to specification
Tighten bolts to specification.

Gaskets damaged
Inspect for damage and replace.

Electronic pressure control solenoid stuck or damaged
Perform Electronic Pressure Control Tests described in routine No. 204. Replace as required.

Engagement control valve, springs — damaged, stuck, misassembled, contaminated
Inspect for damage. Repair/replace as required.

Pump Assembly
Bolts not tightened to specification
Tighten bolts to specification.

Gaskets damaged
Inspect for damage and replace.

Main regulator/booster valve stuck, damaged, misassembled
Inspect for damage. Repair/replace as required.

Forward Clutch Assembly
Assembly
Air check clutch assembly; refer to Air Pressure Tests in this section.

Plates burnt, missing; check ball missing, damaged; hub damaged
Inspect for damage. Replace

 

Is there a difference between a trans service and a trans flush? I was reading horror stories about trans flushes on the web... is a flush like a power pressure sort of thing and do I want that? Or do I just want them to drop the pan, drain pan and converter, new filter and fill it up. Hate to sound stupid... but i just don't know. And would I be better off to go to the ford dealer for the service? Any idea how much it could cost there?

 

I'm biased so I like the dealer, however I see a lot of messed up vehicle come from another shop before we get it, for the flush I'd take it to a dealership or trans shop

 

What about the trans flush horror stories... that they can ruin a good tranny? Any truth to them? And any idea what a trans service at the dealer costs? I live in Southern California if that helps.

 

a trans flush doesn't ruin a good trans, but the problem is it won't hide problems either so if your trans is something other then a fluid problem it would still be there, the cost is around 150 over on the east coast, you might just want the shop you take it to diag it

 

Does the service include a pretty detailed inspection of the system too? What should diag cost? And sorry for harping on it... but is there a difference between a flush and a service? at ford do they just drop the pan etc. I've heard of some places that have a machine that actually flushes the system.

 

the diag cost depends on the shop but usually 1 hour at the shop rate, the service doesn't usually include diag