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How many miles? You might want to consider replacing the tensioner and idler while you are into it.
How many miles until you should replace the belt and tensioner? I have looked at mine and it looks ok, but I planned on replacing the belt soon. I also noticed and extremely high pitched squeal when I pulled a 7% grade with my TT this year. I have run the same grade many a time with no squeal. I wonder if that squeal was belt slippage from a worn out tensioner. Any mileage recommendations for replacing these 2? I just rolled 60k on the truck, and it is an 05.
How many miles until you should replace the belt and tensioner? I have looked at mine and it looks ok, but I planned on replacing the belt soon. I also noticed and extremely high pitched squeal when I pulled a 7% grade with my TT this year. I have run the same grade many a time with no squeal. I wonder if that squeal was belt slippage from a worn out tensioner. Any mileage recommendations for replacing these 2? I just rolled 60k on the truck, and it is an 05.
From what I read, most folks get to 100k and beyond before experiencing a need to replace the belt and tensioner/idler pulleys. There are always exceptions in both directions...
I know you're pain, that thing is such a pain in the as$, if only the tensioner was 6" higher. My half inch socket barely could get in the hole, the arm was hitting the intercooler tube the whole time. Man was I frustrated ! And all that at 20 below zero making the rubber belt nice and stiff... Glad it's done finally !
I've found it's easier to unloosen the 4 bolts holding down the alternator and tip the alternator forward to release tension on the belt. That locking clip is a PITA!
Yeah, I have done the exact same thing on a couple of occasions but the reversal isn't as easy. I found one other way that work well. If you grab the belt and pull on it to get slack, you can see the tensioner moving away from the crankshaft ( as I recall ) and if you find something soft but something that doesn't compress, you can place it between the two in the now enlargened space and then release the belt. The tensioner can't spring tight because of the block and you can work away at your leisure.. If you have just the right item, it's even faster than using the 1/2" hole, if you can ever get into it. I had the problem that the little ball that keeps the sockets on made it very difficult to insert it into the tensioner. Couple that with the space between the rad shroud and that the angle that my tensioner is on, means I almost have to use a blow torch and bend my 1/2" bar about 10 degrees first to get it to align, makes that whole set up a piece of crap IMHO. The book says to remove the shroud and fan, holy crap, why not remove the cab to do an oil change?? !!! Seems that a guy with a blown belt on the road would be screwed !
Originally Posted by barnbridge
I've found it's easier to unloosen the 4 bolts holding down the alternator and tip the alternator forward to release tension on the belt. That locking clip is a PITA!
its fords way of saying gotcha i took a strap and attached to the top of my hood and lifted it gave me enough rooom to get it on and then a screwdriver to roll it on its been on for about 35,000 miles and still going but it was most hard about 4 hrs and 2 people
just an update,after william posted the pic of tensioner lock it was simple.i pulled the belt,dad locked the tensioner and had old belt out and new one in,less than 30 min.no tools needed....BTW,just to waste time i tried to get my own pic of the lock and i still cant see how he did it but im happy he did!
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