ECM interchange
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Junior User
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ECM interchange
My '89 F250's computer comes up with three codes. The first two indicated both the temp sensors were bad but resistance and voltage tested OK according to the manuals' instructions which state the ECM is bad. However, I am having trouble trying to find a replacement. I would have to send the computer away to a rebuild shop and spend at least $80 just to have it looked at.
The white sticker clearly reads: E9TF-12A650-Z1B and I assume it is the factory module.
The local parts stores (Napa, O'Rileys, AutoZone, and Federated) claim there is no listing for that number and the Ford dealer says there is not any parts available. Can anyone cross reference this number or confirm if a similar application ecm will work?
For all I know, this may not be the original or correct ECM:
351W / C6 / 4wd / AC / 8500GVW / not a California vehicle /
The white sticker clearly reads: E9TF-12A650-Z1B and I assume it is the factory module.
The local parts stores (Napa, O'Rileys, AutoZone, and Federated) claim there is no listing for that number and the Ford dealer says there is not any parts available. Can anyone cross reference this number or confirm if a similar application ecm will work?
For all I know, this may not be the original or correct ECM:
351W / C6 / 4wd / AC / 8500GVW / not a California vehicle /
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Junior User
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I will have to pull the codes again to get the third code, but the first two recognized problems with the two temperature sensors in the block.
When I performed the tests, I cleared the codes, the conducted the tests according to the manuals. Reference voltages were smack in the middle of spec and the two sensors followed the resistance/temperature tests. I even pulled the sensors and double checked their operation by cooling then heating them in hot water and checking the resistance again. The manual says the ecm is therefore... bad.
Other than the check engine light, the truck has difficulty starting when hot and cranks over a little too much when cold.
When I performed the tests, I cleared the codes, the conducted the tests according to the manuals. Reference voltages were smack in the middle of spec and the two sensors followed the resistance/temperature tests. I even pulled the sensors and double checked their operation by cooling then heating them in hot water and checking the resistance again. The manual says the ecm is therefore... bad.
Other than the check engine light, the truck has difficulty starting when hot and cranks over a little too much when cold.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
The Computer only reads one water temp sensor. Is the other sensor you are talking about an air temp sensor?
Post the Calibration number off the door post and we can use that to find the right For part number for your truck.
Post the Calibration number off the door post and we can use that to find the right For part number for your truck.
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Subford, you are correct about the temp sensors. However, the door has been replaced (different paint behind the trim) and there is the shape of a decal underneath the layers of paint on the cab side of the door jamb. The best I can provide is the truck's old computer#, configuration, and VIN.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I'll say it again... the self tests are supposed to be performed on an engine that has been warmed up, if that isn't done first you will always get false ECT and ACT codes that should be ignored.
So.. was the engine at operating temperature when you performed the test? If it wasn't then your EEC is not bad and you are presently on a wild goose chase.
So.. was the engine at operating temperature when you performed the test? If it wasn't then your EEC is not bad and you are presently on a wild goose chase.
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Conaski....I reset the codes, then performed the tests per instructions in the manual. Initial cold engine tests then the hot engine tests.
I will go back to the drawing board tomorrow to retrieve the exact codes, and pay extra attention to the proper testing sequence just to make sure I did everything correctly.
I will go back to the drawing board tomorrow to retrieve the exact codes, and pay extra attention to the proper testing sequence just to make sure I did everything correctly.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Phoenix since 4/05
You posted a month ago but.....
I see you have an '88 F350 with same engine/tranny config. pull the EEC out of the 350 and plug it into the 250. '87-'89 EEC should be almost the same. Of course I assume the 350 is EFI also.
JohnF
beer break
I see you have an '88 F350 with same engine/tranny config. pull the EEC out of the 350 and plug it into the 250. '87-'89 EEC should be almost the same. Of course I assume the 350 is EFI also.
JohnF
beer break
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Junior User
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I thought of that too. Unfortunately, there is no ecm in my '88 F350 to use as a test instrument. 
The engine management system was so messed up that I pulled it all out with the EFI and installed carb & HEI style distributor over a year ago.
I am waiting for spare time (and matching decent weather) to start the troubleshooting process all over again from scratch.
The engine management system was so messed up that I pulled it all out with the EFI and installed carb & HEI style distributor over a year ago.I am waiting for spare time (and matching decent weather) to start the troubleshooting process all over again from scratch.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
A '93 E series truck has an SD batch fired system so no it won't work with anything SFI. Where vehicle has a non ho MAF SFI system?
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kennyr
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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