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NO, I dont have a tach but I jacked up the rear wheels and blocked off one, then I turned the wheel twice and the driveshaft only turned 3 times. Same thing when i turned the wheel 20 times and divided by 10. I dont know accurate this is buts thats how i was told to do it.
forgot to mention pertronix ignition conversion. one of the best modifications you can do to one of these old power plants. if you havent all ready done it; should cost under 70.00 dollars including shipping.
I dont have posi trac. so when I lifted both of them and turned it, one wheel turns one way and the other wheel spins in the other direction but it still came out the same way (3 driveshaft turns).
an electronic conversion kit; solid state electronic breakerless ignition. no points to set. no condinser. better spark, more consistant timing. im reading this out of page 92 national parts depot (mustang outfitters catalog) 1-800-874-7595. they will send you a free catalog! i found mine from a friend who had a shop. i think they are pretty easy to find, check your parts store. i highly recommend this part! using your distributor, you retro-fit this kit where the points and condinsor would go.
I saw someones comment out the FE being a bad motor? well they are wrong they just havent set it up right. If you build it right they will have some Serious Torque (wheel Spinning power) and alot of HP too.
I recently, rebuilt the one in my truck it has a c6 w/o a Shift Kitt and Will Continually Spin tires in 1'st 2nd and bark in 3'rd. is a F250 with a Stock bed and interior. I have the pertronix Electronic conv. I would opt to put in a Mallory Unilite Dist. (from Jegs is a little over 200.00)
.030 bored
Chrome Moly Rings (great Will NOT!! Wear out)
Forged pistons
Eagle Rods
I kept the Stock heads and Intake, Just did some serious, very serious porting.
a Custom grind Lunti Cam
a Holley 750
Headers (Jet Hot Coated)
and Dual Exhaust w/ Flowmasters
if you have the Stock cam and Heads and intake, that is probably your problem, from the Factory the FE Was a Grandpa car motor, you know the big Four Door cars. Not exactly good off the line.
I Suggest maybe 4.11 gears in the rear and maybe a Ltd Slip Diff. if you have any questions email me at:
I know every one is probaly tired of me asking questions on this subject but i dont know anyone that knows anything about fe motors esp. not a 352.Should I go to a larger carb or will the 600 cfm be enough? Also I have been wanting to put a cam in for awhile but i dont know what the highest duration that i can go without having to change rods and convertor. I have heard to stay below 500 but even the ones with 510 duration only say stock idle. I would like a noticable change if im going to do it. Any suggestions? Thanks again to everyone.
I just installed a tach and it shows 2000 rpms in 3rd going 60mph. Does that tell you anything about the gear ratio? Also I think that the balancer has spun cause if I set my timing at 6btc Then it backfires and sputters real bad. I have set the timing to where it doesnt sputter and where it doesnt "knock" or preignite.
I have a 352 in a daily driver 66 F250. It has a granny low 4spd., 3.73 rear, & 36" super swampers. The truck gets 18 mpg, tops out at 120mph, & can twist drive shafts at will!!!!!!! Mine has a 68 fact. 390-375hp intake( flows as good or better than edelbrock), a 600 holley 4160 carb(#1850), stock cam, 390 hi-po heads(makes for 10:1 c.r.), hedman hedders, fact. 1" carb spacer, 14"x4" K&N air filter, 428 water pump, Splitfire plugs, Accel 300 racing wires,& Accel Super Stock coil. The truck can roast the Swampers in 2nd. I ran into the problem of losing bottom end torque when I put on the hedders. The holley & fact. intake MORE than made up for what I lost. Are you sure you haven't jump time on the chain a little? Also, how do you have the edelbrock jetted? I know I had to drop quite a few springs down on my holley to get it to kick the back barrels. I also had to lean the main jets a little. You maybe getting too much gas. Hope some this helps.
Chris with the specks you just posted, that engine should be getting 15 mpg. We are now dealing beyond my expertise. Your carb, timing, or cam is way off. There are speck sheets, and formulars for each set up. Someone here has the info needed to go through your setup and speck it out. I knew my engine because I had owned it 27 years before I rebuilt it. I wanted to add a little umph, and go for more mpg and I did it.
I hope the guy wid the setup sheets will step forward.
I dont know to much about my engines set up as far as internals. All I know is that it was bored 60 over and it sounds and acts like a stock cam. The intake is a factory 4v but I have no idea if it was originaly with this same engine.I wish I had an engine id book so i would know.I dont know what size jets are in the carb.(probaly original)I did at first have a problem with running rich but I adjusted the pump and now it seems to be fine. Since ive had the truck I added new distributor, plugs,accel wires,accel ignition coil,fuel pump,k&n air cleaner(14x3),remaned C6 tranny, and hedman hedders.
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