I was driving my 69 in heavy traffic the other night and ended up having a minor rearend collision. After the collision I had very little brake pedal left. I had Midas look at it this morning and they reported I have a leaking steel line above the side Aux gas tank. Before I spend big dollars to have the lines replaced, I feel like cutting my losses and just swapping my driveline (engine,tranny,and driveline) to my 76. I have thought about bending my own brake line but a buddy has told me that making good double flares are very difficult. I have a good quality tube bender I bought for making tranny lines when I converted to auto a couple of years ago. The issues with the 76 are:
A kingpin that is starting to gall and doesn't easily take grease. It shudders and groans when turning at lower speeds and tighter turns. It does quiet down when you can get grease in it. But only for a week or two (not driven daily)

cutting the transmission tunnel to accept 4sp shifter
Finding a different harmonic damper that has multiple pulleys to drive the power steering pump (I already got the pump and bracketry and hoses from another FE in the junkyard)
Either putting the 2" dual exhaust from the 69 in the 76 or modifying the headpipes of the custom 2-1/4" exhaust with crossover tubes and performance mufflers already on the 76. The 390 with 2" sounds wimpy compared to the way the 302 sounded in the 76.
I wonder whether the engine perches for the FE in the 69 will bolt right into the 76?
I have a smallblock C6 with brand new driveline in the 76 now, I think it came from a car and has a longer tailshaft. I had to drill holes a couple inches back of the existing holes for its crossmember. If I got an FE C6 I may have to use a different driveline. Can anybody tell me how long from tailshaft to carrier bearing the front half of a FE c6 driveline is in a 76 type truck (longbed 2wd)? It might be easier to just replace my C6 than reinstalling my clutch linkages and cutting on my floorboard.
My 76 (aside from the kingpin problem and no engine) is a much nicer truck that I put a lot of effort into fixing the body and making the cab personalized with tach and gauges. Right now I could buy a shortlock 302 and just reassemble (I'd either have to repo the carb from my 390 or get a new carb). I got the 390 running good in the 69 but I don't want to dump a whole bunch more money into it(the 69) right now. What should I expect to pay to have the brakelines redone? I might try and remove the tank myself so that I'm not paying someone else to do that. I want a running truck but I really want to avoid spending another several hundred bucks. Opinion?

 

It can be a simple fix if you want, The rear might have two lines connected instead of one. From the block to just aft of the tank then to the rubber connection at the axle. On this one truck I have here it looks they went NAPA a got new line with fitting installed and feed it down the frame and connected both ends. they left the old line still there.
Also if you want to find the leak yourself. Just have someone step on the brake while you look. Usually it make good mist of brake fluid unless it behind the tank.

 

The leak is above the side aux tank. I'm understanding that someplace like NAPA has pe-made lines.

 

I work at Big Wheel Rossi (also Checker's, Schuck's, and Creagan's or CSK Auto) part time, and most auto part's stores do in fact have pre-flared brake lines. We for instance, sell them in 60", 51", 40", yadda yadda down to 8" lengths. We also sell couplers to join them together if they are not long enough. Napa DEFINETLY has everything you need. (most likely 3/16th" double-flare tubing). Best bet is to replace the whole line from the proportioning valve back, instead of trying to cut and double-flare (which I've heard can suck). I did my entire '78 F150, and it wasn't a big deal, and is leak-free.

Matt

 

I guess I better see about dropping the gas tank then. Another bout with rusty-crusty bolts. Woo-Hoo he says with hungover enthusiasm.

 

I would not worry about removing tank. Just slide it down the rail behind the tank. Also I was wondering if you are running header. Want to myself but I think the tank is in the way

 

I found the leak, it indeed is in the steel line right near the rear of the tank. I put fluid in and started to pump up and heard it and saw the spray. I think I'm going to drop the tank anyway to see better. Also I am having sender probs and want a closer look. I got the shield off.
Regarding headers, no I used stock exhaust manifolds and have 2" dual pipes routed down the passenger side. If I did over I would have requested 2-1/4 or 2-1/2" pipe. I didn't want to fuss with potential starter heat problem, and fit problems and my side tank. So many trucks have the side tank that I imagine that you can get headers that will work, I don't know. Ask around surely someone here has done it or tried.

 

Have fun with the tank. Also reply back with how you get the filler hose apart. I try with one old truck I took apart. ended up just cutting the rubber hose with a Hacksaw. I have another one I need to remove to tighen the bed bolt. and fix the gasket were the sending unit is.

 

I'm in the middle of the job but quit for the night. I cut the rubber hoses with a knife. I found that the tank selector valve needs to be in the off position. I cut the line were the gas leaves the tank next to the sender. It drained about 4 gallons at a trickle into a couple of gas cans (and then into my Chevy). There are two straps wrapped around the bottom of the tank. I loosened the rear one at a hook. I need a socket extention (that I can't find just yet) to reach the front stap up near the driveline. The other end by the frame rail has a nut on the inside of the framerail that I don't think I can get a wrench on. The rubber is old and needs to be replaced If and when I put the tank back in.