Screw threads in plastic, holding a seal for flammable liquids? What company would think this up.
It should have had a molded metal flange to secure the sender.
I am sure the torque limit for a screw in plastic has been carefully tested, that's why its so low.
I'm sure it has been tested enough that it will work, but I would check it for leakage from time to time, especially after extreme cold weather.

If your original rubber seal is in good condition, don't throw it away, reuse it.
The original rubber seal has an odd square cross-section. Most of the replacements have a taller rectangular cross-section that is much easier to crush or fold an edge over during installation. You need to make sure its well lubed.
I would feel better if someone offered a big fat O-ring.

 

You might be on to something there...maybe there's a blind nut with a rubber washer? I was thinking after I tightened the screws that the screw holes themselves are the weakest link to the whole thing. If the tank DID leak, I would expect it to be one or more of the screw holes.

 

Chasetruck did you try this place?Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist found it on another post one of the guys put up on another thread.

 

Thanks for the link - I guess I will turn to them if I have to. I'd bet this thing is too far gone for them to fix though.

In the mean time I have been looking at pics of the other sending units on JBG and Blue Oval Parts and think I will be making another sending unit work.

 

Danny: Thanks for the great post.

I went ahead and took a chance on the sender not fitting and ordered a Blue Oval unit from Carpenter and the same plastic tank from JBG. As you suggested on a previous post, the sending unit lock ring & seal came with the tank, so take the extra seven bucks you would have spent at JBG and buy the "better" float from Carpenter for $5.99. The rest you can use on the dollar menu at Mickey D's.

Here's two (clickable) pics of the sender retracted and expanded, for those who asked:





Here you can see the difference between "E" and out-of-gas. (About 50 yards at my estimated MPG)...



Mine went in on the 9s. Without the gasket, it clicked the bottom a little. With the gasket, there was no contact with the bottom of the tank.

My directions said I was safe to torque up to 7 ft-lbs. The plastic resisted pretty good, so I'm not overly-worried. I'll report back from Wisconsin sometime around Wildcard Saturday if I'm wrong...

As long as we're on the topic, does anyone actually own a torque wrench that knows the difference between 1 ft-lb and not quite 1 ft-lb? I've never heard of such a thing, though I imagine they exist.

And one more thing: The lower straps listed on JBG for 78-79 PU (P/N 20358) do not fit my tank (tank sticker has P/N 4250A), so you might want to talk to someone at JBG if this is a concern of yours. Again, I was just taking a chance. The upper straps (JBG #20355) fit great. Going on tomorrow.

 

Looks good. The plastic one should last a long time.

 

May or may not last as long but I bought my 25 and a half gallon metal fuel tank for my 79 Bronco from Advance Auto Parts for 100.00 bucks. I had to get the special sender from Bronco Graveyard for 70 bucks and I had to wait a month to get it.

I did a little different approach to gettin the old tank out. I drove around until most of the gas was out, pulled to a level spot in the yard, unhooked all hoses, removed the straps and let that pos drop to the ground then took it to the junkyard, lol.

 

i just went from propane to gas with my 77 F150 short box and got the tank sending unit and tank straps for 225$ canadian. and our parts prices up here are completely insane.

those parts at rock auto were only 184$ american and the parts are made in canada and theres a dealer in my city...............wtf

deadly pics tho bro.

 

Does anyone know what the Ford part number is for the rubber hose going to the fender??

Thanks

 

thanks man, I have to do the same thing.

 

hi im in
Ashburn VA

we should meet up some time.

the tank looks great wish they made a larger
plastic tank. i want the 38 gallon tank some day
soon.

 

I wasnt going to revive this thread....but since somebody already did....

Do the screws that hold the metal flange in penetrate the inside of the tank? As in they thread all the way into it? Or are they real short that they only screw into the plastic tank so far as to not actually cut in to the inside? With everyone talking about talking about possible leaks, I assume they actually go through and into the tank. Can someone confirm either way?

 

Sorry to barge in on this thread but I have a question.
Did your old tank have the emissions hole connected or was it blocked off?
I can't tell from the pic.
If you eliminate the emissions hole and don't have a vented gas cap it seems to me it will cause a vacuum in the tank and prevent gas from getting to the engine efficiently.
Are you having a problem with fuel starvation?
How is your new tank vented?