replace rear end
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Gulf Coast Mississippi
Hit refresh, had to check "image only (no link)" and change size to 800px in Picasaweb. Google....is there anything it can't do?
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
I think you might have a leaking pinion seal. The pinion shaft looks very oily, and if you look at the fender liners it looks like oil has been slung around. I'm not sure, because the diff housing looks completely dry. But something has been slung. And the U-joint spider looks completely dry and rusty, so it probably isn't U-joint grease. Could be a U-joint though, because I don't see any evidence that a zerk has ever been used or even exist.
Check your differential lube by pulling the pipe plug in the front side of it. It just takes a 3/8" square drive ratchet, no socket. Reach in with your finger tip and feel for oil. It should be right at the lip of the threaded hole, so that if it was any fuller it would run out. Make sure you are parked on level ground when you check it. If I'm right and it has been leaking, you might not be able to touch the oil.
If you can touch it, reach in with your pinky as far as you can and get it wet with oil. Then pull it out and wet a piece of heavy paper. The oil should be nice and amber color, and not smell burned or have any particles. Those are simple first steps you can do in a few minutes, without sucking oil out or opening the diff cover.
Check your differential lube by pulling the pipe plug in the front side of it. It just takes a 3/8" square drive ratchet, no socket. Reach in with your finger tip and feel for oil. It should be right at the lip of the threaded hole, so that if it was any fuller it would run out. Make sure you are parked on level ground when you check it. If I'm right and it has been leaking, you might not be able to touch the oil.
If you can touch it, reach in with your pinky as far as you can and get it wet with oil. Then pull it out and wet a piece of heavy paper. The oil should be nice and amber color, and not smell burned or have any particles. Those are simple first steps you can do in a few minutes, without sucking oil out or opening the diff cover.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 20
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From: Gulf Coast Mississippi
I could not get the differential fill plug out, it's being very stubborn. I sprayed some PB blaster on it hoping that might help.
Regarding the oily looking component, would that be sufficient to cause the noise I have described?
Thanks for looking!
Regarding the oily looking component, would that be sufficient to cause the noise I have described?
Thanks for looking!
Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
I don't think the leak is something you need to worry about, mine has been leaking 3X that much for years. I add about 8oz a year.
Get the hole in the plug clean so the ratchet go's all the way in and does not slip, then tap it with a hammer.
Get the hole in the plug clean so the ratchet go's all the way in and does not slip, then tap it with a hammer.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 20
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From: Gulf Coast Mississippi
I'm going to try again to get the fill plug out today, maybe that will shed some light on my issue.
My thanks to all so far!
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
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From: Whittier, CA
He means a locking differential. Unless you are a serious off-roader, you don't need or want that.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2009
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when I've had worn pinion gears, the sound was a different tone when accelerating or engine breaking as the piion shaft would tip up or down depending on the direction of the load on it.
as for the "locker", there are plenty of good limited slip differentials that are much better than the factory option, without being too noticable on the street.
The OP has a 4x4, so either that was a mistake, or some sort of better tracion aid is worth doing if its all going to be apart anyway. I haven't check whats available for the sterling axle, but I'm guessing there are option less severe than a clasic Detroit locker available. The Detroit Trutrac come to mind, and there are plently of selectable lockers too, but those get a little more involved.
If the OP has an open diff, even a factory LS would be an improvement. If it saves you even one tow bill, it is worth it.
as for the "locker", there are plenty of good limited slip differentials that are much better than the factory option, without being too noticable on the street.
The OP has a 4x4, so either that was a mistake, or some sort of better tracion aid is worth doing if its all going to be apart anyway. I haven't check whats available for the sterling axle, but I'm guessing there are option less severe than a clasic Detroit locker available. The Detroit Trutrac come to mind, and there are plently of selectable lockers too, but those get a little more involved.
If the OP has an open diff, even a factory LS would be an improvement. If it saves you even one tow bill, it is worth it.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
Likes: 1,678
From: Stephensville WI
Before I swapped the rear differential with a wrecking yard special, I would still have the wrecking yard differential checked carefully.
First, make sure the axle tubes are square. A violent collision (or Dukes of Hazard style landing) can tweak them.
Next, have someone pull the cover and check everything. It may be that you're just swapping one problem for another.
Last, since you're swapping the axle housing anyway, it's a good time to rebuild the rear brakes.
So, if done properly, you're probably not going to save any money over having someone pull the cover on your existing differential and checking it out.
First, make sure the axle tubes are square. A violent collision (or Dukes of Hazard style landing) can tweak them.
Next, have someone pull the cover and check everything. It may be that you're just swapping one problem for another.
Last, since you're swapping the axle housing anyway, it's a good time to rebuild the rear brakes.
So, if done properly, you're probably not going to save any money over having someone pull the cover on your existing differential and checking it out.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Gulf Coast Mississippi
I picked it up this morning, sounds like it should finally. ~$1,200 bill and it still needs another ~$800 for upper/lower ball joints and sway bar work. I'm in the wrong line of work I swear....
He raised the front end with a floor jack and showed me the amount of movement the front passenger tire has and it was a bunch, drivers side front tire was almost the same. Here's hoping I can get some overtime and get it done before the wheels fall of my baby!
Thanks to all for the input!
He raised the front end with a floor jack and showed me the amount of movement the front passenger tire has and it was a bunch, drivers side front tire was almost the same. Here's hoping I can get some overtime and get it done before the wheels fall of my baby!
Thanks to all for the input!
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