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Just read turbo R/R is a snap in forum. I am doing something wrong!!! I can't get to rear turbo pedestal bolts. I have gotten front pedestal bolts, exhaust manifold x turbo inlet pipe bolts @ exhaust manifold ends out. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I am replacing lift pump (leaking out weep hole) and installing MBRP turbo back exhaust system at same time, so all tips will be appreciated.
if you do need to do a turbo R and R the rear bolts are a pain and tedious but dont be dawnted. you really have to get up and personal with the rears, if your looking at the turbo, for the left rear pedistal bolt i recomend taking off the turbine outlet housing that holts the butterfly valve. its 3 12 point 5/16 socket, deep well will help out with an extention and then use a 10mm boxed end wrench to get that, it takes a while but youll get to it eecntually. and for the rear right side, uhg here we go! lol reallllly reach your left arm back there behind the uppipes and up and around and feel for the bolt. and when you feel it with your left hand you can reach your pointer finger or skinniest finger you have lol down inbetween where the pedistal meets the exhaust housing, just your finger and get down there and you can just touch the head of the bolt. use that finger once you find the spot im talking about to guid the wrench on and off. i highly suggest using a ratchet wrench. both rear pedistal bolts are tedious and took me 30 mins to get them off inbetween rests from my arms going asleep lol
well good luck bud, let us know how that turns out
Thanks for the tip Copedawg. I removed the filter housing and banjo nut and while removing the fuel line from the rear of the R/H cylinder head I decided that while I could get the lift pump out there was no way I was going to be able to re-install it and be comfortable with the job. Long story short, I finished pulling the turbocharger.
I going to install a MBRP "turbo back" exhaust and think that I may be able to salvage the stock downpipe rather than cut it out if I remove the trans crossmember and lower the rear of the engine. I start to reassemble things in a couple days and will let you know how I make out.
Thanks again for the help, Wattrode
I am not sure the stock dp will come out with the trans in place. Even if you could get it out, I don't believe anybody would want it. Everybody replaces it with a better designed pipe.
Maybe you are looking for a challenge. That will be a good one.
I would concider to what Sam is saying. If you look at the old DP you will see how it get restricted (Corbra necked) where it goes between the firewall and engine.You can put a new DP in easily at this point. (Why buy new shoes and keep the old laces?). I don't think you can pull the old out, you have to cut it with a SAW (NOT a torch Exhaust removal gone horrible. - Ford Diesel Power Forums ).
Thanks to All,
Your advice was "right on time". If I had it to do again, I'd leave the turbo alone. I had no idea that the banjo would drop like that. Well, turbo came off, cleaned up under it, and got new donuts in exhaust x turbo "Y" pipes. All went back together, installed new downpipe and exhaust system. I drove it to work (2 hours) the next morning and won't see it again until I off this boat on 2/10/2010. I am leaving for Texas the following Monday with the gooseneck to pick up a pair of old case tractors. Hope the new exhaust, 6 position chip and intake are good for a couple MPG. Once again guys, Thanks for all advice and tips--they were right on!!
Wattrode
I have taken 2 down pips out with out cutting them, but only with the trans removed and moving the engine around. it is a bigger job than cutting it no question about it!
P.S. I have 2 perfectly good stock down pipes if anyone needs one!