valve covers ??????
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 217
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From: Chandler, AZ
valve covers ??????
I was wondering if anyone can give me removal instructions for removing the valve covers i could not figure out how to get them out i only saw two bolts.and they where lose as Shi*.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Upper intake and coil mounting bracket has to come off then there are 6 bolts holding the valve covers on.
Sounds like you need to get yourself a service manual, I suggest a Chiltons over the Haynes.
Sounds like you need to get yourself a service manual, I suggest a Chiltons over the Haynes.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
I believe that there are a total of six bolts on each cover. There are indentations on the cover for each bolt. On the passenger side, you will have to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the inside bolts, and to remove the cover from the head. The upper manifold requires a Torx bit (can't recall the bit size right now), and you'll need to use a 1/4" drive bit holder and extension, especially for the center manifold bolt. The center bolt is accessed from the center runner slot of the upper manifold. Be carefull around the vacuum tubings; they are brittle and will be damaged if handled too roughly.
I'm sure someone will chime in to add what I have missed. Not too difficult, but can give you a back ache when doing this with the engine still in the truck.
Ed
I'm sure someone will chime in to add what I have missed. Not too difficult, but can give you a back ache when doing this with the engine still in the truck.
Ed
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 692
Likes: 8
From: Roanoke, VA
I just did mine last month- here's my story:
1987, -88, -89+ Ford F-150 5.0L/5.8L Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
This task is not for anyone that doesn't feel comfortable using regular mechanics tools while laying on the radiator support of your pickup. I suggest using a moving blanket or old quilt to cushion the radiator support and prevent rib fracture. And be sure you use a sturdy bench to stand on while leaning into the engine bay of your old truck.
To get my truck as low as possible, I removed both front wheels and lowered the front axle assembly down until the lower part of each spindle was resting on a block of wood. This will stop it just short of the rotor shield contacting the flloor. My truck is a 4x4, so without this step it's too high to work on for a long period of time while all your body weight is resting on your ribsriod of time while all your body weight is resting on your ribs.
It's a good idea to spray the upper intake plenum bolts and EGR valve nut several hours before you start. I sprayed mine the day before.
You will then start the dis-assembly process.
First disconnect the negative battery lead and lay it aside.
Remove the cover for the cruise and throttle cables, then disconnect all three cables from the throttle body (TB) and remove their bracket from the TB. Try to wrestle the cable assembly to the left side of the truck so it is held under the master cylinder out of the way.
Remove both air tubes from the TB and airbox. Disconnect all electrical connectors and vacuum lines from the upper plenum, TB, IAC valve, and EGR valve.
Disconnect the coolant line that goes to the plenum where it attaches to the t-connector at the lower end. You will loose a few drops of coolant.
Remove the four plug wires from the plugs on left side of the engine, label them 1-4, and pull them toward the front of the ruck to get them out of the way.
Disconnect the large nut from the bottom of the EGR valve. If you didn't spray it with a penetrating oil, you should spray it now and then take the rest of the day off.
Now you'll need to start on the six bolts holding the plenum to the lower intake. Five of them will require a 1/2" deep socket. The sixth one is i the center between the runners on the right side of the plenum. It is a Torx40 head. A 3/8 drive T40 socket will not fit down between the runners, so you will need to use a 1/4 drive ratchet and two extensions to reach it. I used a T40 bit taped inside a socket. You will be glad you taped it.
Remove the nut holding the plenum brace on the RH side of the engine and bend the brace away from the engine to get it out of the way. The plenum should be loose now and you can lift it off. If not a few taps with a rubber hammer will free it up.
You might find that you had tenants living on the warm top of the lower intake. I found lots of shells and bedding. It's a good idea to have a shop vac close by to remove debris as you find it. It will keep the crud from falling down into the engine.
You will need to carefully bend the EGR tube upward to allow room to remove the RH valve cover. Remove six bolts from each valve cover and then remove the valve covers. Again, a rubber hammer might be needed to break them free. Do not pry on them.
I suggest using the more expensive neoprene coated metal gaskets rather than cork or rubber. They will probably outlast your engine.
Replacement is basically the reverse of the dis-assembly process. [/COLOR]
I have pictures too but the link to upload isn't working.
1987, -88, -89+ Ford F-150 5.0L/5.8L Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
This task is not for anyone that doesn't feel comfortable using regular mechanics tools while laying on the radiator support of your pickup. I suggest using a moving blanket or old quilt to cushion the radiator support and prevent rib fracture. And be sure you use a sturdy bench to stand on while leaning into the engine bay of your old truck.
To get my truck as low as possible, I removed both front wheels and lowered the front axle assembly down until the lower part of each spindle was resting on a block of wood. This will stop it just short of the rotor shield contacting the flloor. My truck is a 4x4, so without this step it's too high to work on for a long period of time while all your body weight is resting on your ribsriod of time while all your body weight is resting on your ribs.
It's a good idea to spray the upper intake plenum bolts and EGR valve nut several hours before you start. I sprayed mine the day before.
You will then start the dis-assembly process.
First disconnect the negative battery lead and lay it aside.
Remove the cover for the cruise and throttle cables, then disconnect all three cables from the throttle body (TB) and remove their bracket from the TB. Try to wrestle the cable assembly to the left side of the truck so it is held under the master cylinder out of the way.
Remove both air tubes from the TB and airbox. Disconnect all electrical connectors and vacuum lines from the upper plenum, TB, IAC valve, and EGR valve.
Disconnect the coolant line that goes to the plenum where it attaches to the t-connector at the lower end. You will loose a few drops of coolant.
Remove the four plug wires from the plugs on left side of the engine, label them 1-4, and pull them toward the front of the ruck to get them out of the way.
Disconnect the large nut from the bottom of the EGR valve. If you didn't spray it with a penetrating oil, you should spray it now and then take the rest of the day off.
Now you'll need to start on the six bolts holding the plenum to the lower intake. Five of them will require a 1/2" deep socket. The sixth one is i the center between the runners on the right side of the plenum. It is a Torx40 head. A 3/8 drive T40 socket will not fit down between the runners, so you will need to use a 1/4 drive ratchet and two extensions to reach it. I used a T40 bit taped inside a socket. You will be glad you taped it.
Remove the nut holding the plenum brace on the RH side of the engine and bend the brace away from the engine to get it out of the way. The plenum should be loose now and you can lift it off. If not a few taps with a rubber hammer will free it up.
You might find that you had tenants living on the warm top of the lower intake. I found lots of shells and bedding. It's a good idea to have a shop vac close by to remove debris as you find it. It will keep the crud from falling down into the engine.
You will need to carefully bend the EGR tube upward to allow room to remove the RH valve cover. Remove six bolts from each valve cover and then remove the valve covers. Again, a rubber hammer might be needed to break them free. Do not pry on them.
I suggest using the more expensive neoprene coated metal gaskets rather than cork or rubber. They will probably outlast your engine.
Replacement is basically the reverse of the dis-assembly process. [/COLOR]
I have pictures too but the link to upload isn't working.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Thanks for the help it is raining here in arizona (suprising) and suppose to for the next few days after that i will go at it.
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