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If you're having to crank it 3-4 times to start it when it gets colder out and you see a white haze pour out of your exhaust, that sounds like a classic bad GPR sign. I had to crank mine 2-3 times for it to start and it was white haze fogging the neighbor's house from my exhaust each time.
Rain let up... found an old tail light and beat the connectors off of it (redneck wiggie) had my girl sit in the driver seat and held the makeshift wiggie on the large terminal with no cover (easily assume that is constant hot) and when she turned it on it lit up. I did this several times and discovered I have an intermittent GPR connection. I will go buy one asap.
A bit late on the stancor post, thanks though. I went to napa (caught 'em just before locking the door) they had one left. Odd thing was it was molded 90 degrees off from the stock one :/ but she fired up easier... I'll see how she behaves at 5am when it's 45 degrees outside. I think it's done though. Final verdict tomorrow, as for now...
Definate improvement this morning, always fired right up afterwards. I'm parking it on the street tonight to put it out in colder air. I'll see how she does in the morning, it's probably at least 10 degrees cooler than in the garage.
Sorry Macamon, I forgot to mention that the NAPA GPR109 is rotated 90* but it sounds like you got it taken care of anyway.
Congrats on fixing it. I think if you do the GPR LED mod, you'll be surprised at when the GPs are turned on sometimes. I'm really enjoying watching mine each time I go to start the truck.
Disconnect the cables from your batteries. Clean the terminals and clamps very well. If there's any corrosion on them, get it off. I got a battery terminal scrubber tool and a clamp and terminal scraper tool at NAPA for a few bucks. Pick up some dielectric grease and coat the terminals and clamps liberally. Reconnect and try again.
yep, sounds like your batteries are weak. It's possible that they were already weak (or your alternator is on its way out) and the extra load from your GPR actually working is too much for the batts/alt to recover from. The GPs are a very high amp draw, and will drain the batts so you need good batts and a working alternator to keep them well charged. Check your battery voltage (both batteries should have the same voltage if your connections are good, since they're wired in parallel) when it's been sitting. Should be close to 12.6V. Check voltage again with it running. While the GPs are still on, it'll probably only be about 12V, but once the GPR turns off, it should go to at least 14V. If your voltages are low, it will cause the slow spin and difficult start.
Jumped in this morning and it was really dead. I tend to keep my batteries very clean so I'm going to pick up a new alternator. I read a post last year about a fella traveling was getting feedback noise through his radio when he stepped on his brakes, I've also been getting that so I'll just gamble it. My local rebuilder has my alternator 130a for 92 freshly rebuilt... Time to brake out the wrenches again :/
Got 'er started today with a jump from my mustang. Went to my local rebuilder and purchased an alternator (yes, left it running), got home, opened the hood and.
13.4V on the batteries... Hmmm...
Clean and retighten the terminals just for giggles, she balks, but then starts right up. I turned around and backed 'er into the driveway and figured I'd head out when it cooled off to see what she does after cooling off.
Jump in, turn the key and it cranks slow. I run to get the volt meter and it shows 12.8V
do you have a way to check battery voltage while trying to start it? Even if the batteries are at 12.6V, they could still have an issue where they don't have enough under load. I believe that's all a load test at autozone/advance type stores is simulating. SpringerPop and others also always recommend to check batteries with a hydrometer. I have no experience with one, but apparently Napa sells one for about $20.
At this point, I would guess either the batteries are the problem or something is going on with your starter mayber?
Did it crank fast before you put the new GPR on? If so, I would try taking the GPR out of the equation and put your old one it (jumper the GPR if it's cold enough to need the GPs to get it started). The GPs take are a big amp draw, and suck my brand new batteries' voltage down below 11V, so weak batteries don't stand much of a chance if the GPR is finally turning on.