Question on booster pump install
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
This how I have mine set up. There is a mini blade type fuse holder with a 3 amp fuse near the pump. I have a relay under the hood near the power distribution box to supply the pump's power and is triggered by a wire coming from the OEM pump's wiring at the harness plug.
I have since added w/s wiper motor grommets to the pump's mount to reduce the noise from vibration and currently using a shorter filter that doesn't extend below the frame.
I have since added w/s wiper motor grommets to the pump's mount to reduce the noise from vibration and currently using a shorter filter that doesn't extend below the frame.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
From: Frankfort, KY
You can get a Bosch stocker replacement pump on eBay for $99.95.
Bosch F81 U-9350-AA 0580464074 Ford Diesel Fuel Pump : eBay Motors (item 390108696313 end time Jan-19-10 06:35:39 PST)
Bosch F81 U-9350-AA 0580464074 Ford Diesel Fuel Pump : eBay Motors (item 390108696313 end time Jan-19-10 06:35:39 PST)
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I don't think it's going to help with power & mileage, honestly. You've done the in-tank mods already, so that fixes the air problem. Do the CCK, FRx, or RR and be done. The other stuff is (way) overkill IMHO.
you can't fix stupid!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,906
Likes: 2
i did the carter lift pump mod on my truck and then a month later put the walbro gsl 392 on there to replace the stock pump and had to take the carter back off as it was a restriction for the walbro unit.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I have a bit of an update. I got my fuel pressure gauge put in finally, and I'm dropping *a lot* of pressure at WOT. Like into the low 30s. I'll put the RR in tomorrow and see what that does. Right now, I still have the DFA CCK in, and was waiting to put the gauge on before I did the RR conversion. I put it in my sig a while back, but never got around to putting it on. I'll update what I see after the RR install tomorrow...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
I need to hook up my fuel pressure tester and check it at WOT. Still running the stock pump with over 160k miles on the clock.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
No. I'm saying I need to get my RR put on. If it still drops too much, then I'm going with the Walbro. 
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
I didn't think about the possibilty of the booster blow'n chunks to the hi pressure but that's a good thought. I put the higher pressure spring in my pump but you've been running the other with no problems I might change it back out. I had problems with low pressure at WOT and was running the shim. I tried larger shim with no increase in pressure. When I did the FRx I noticed the FPR rubber parts had shrunk and could be leaking pressure by, I put a kit in and that's when my OEM pump gave-up the ghost.
Mueckster, it looks like you have your in-line fuse down by your pump, just for safety sakes I would put it up where your power source tap is at, if you get a short between your battery and fuse it could start a fire. So did you notice any difference after doing the booster pump?
Mueckster, it looks like you have your in-line fuse down by your pump, just for safety sakes I would put it up where your power source tap is at, if you get a short between your battery and fuse it could start a fire. So did you notice any difference after doing the booster pump?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
Mueckster, it looks like you have your in-line fuse down by your pump, just for safety sakes I would put it up where your power source tap is at, if you get a short between your battery and fuse it could start a fire. So did you notice any difference after doing the booster pump?
The fuse by the pump was there first when I paralleled into the OEM pumps wiring. But, later I added the relay and its own separate power source for less voltage drop. I actually had a homebuilt cyclonic air/fuel separator on the mounting bracket in my pics. The first pump I had pressurized the bowl and had a return to the brass tee you will notice in the pics. I took this off because of leaking issues and the installation of my homebuilt CCK made it unnecessary.
I didn't do any before and after pressure tests at the time. I need to do a WOT pressure drop test soon and see how things are. I am looking at adding a fuel pressure gauge inside the truck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Yea, I saw that T in the line and was wondering what it was for. I was actually thinking of doing something similer running the boost pump to the filter with a orficed return off the top of the filter housing back to the tank but with doing the in-tank mod. it shouldn't be necessary.
In regards to the in-tank mod., does removing the mixer and putting the return farther away from the pick-up change gelling issues when it's in the minuses?
In regards to the in-tank mod., does removing the mixer and putting the return farther away from the pick-up change gelling issues when it's in the minuses?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
Yea, I saw that T in the line and was wondering what it was for. I was actually thinking of doing something similer running the boost pump to the filter with a orficed return off the top of the filter housing back to the tank but with doing the in-tank mod. it shouldn't be necessary.
In regards to the in-tank mod., does removing the mixer and putting the return farther away from the pick-up change gelling issues when it's in the minuses?
In regards to the in-tank mod., does removing the mixer and putting the return farther away from the pick-up change gelling issues when it's in the minuses?
CCK or RR would benefit you more than the orifice and return at the in frame filter. Without some sort of A/F separator, it wouldn't do much.