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How long have you been cranking the truck over?
What's the temperature in Florida?
Without glow plugs, you should be able to get it to "WANT TO" fire with about 6 cranking sessions...20 seconds cranking/3 minutes cooling
Whenever I've opened up my fuel system for a repair, I've always disabled my stock glow plug harness by pulling the puple wire off the glow plug relay on the passenger side iner fender. Within about 5 cranking sessions, the truck ws startig to putter and was ready for takeoff. Cranking sessions #6 had it running on a few cylinders before it smoothed out on all 8. This was all done in the garage. It sat in there overnight at approximately 40-50 degrees with no wind.
Believe me, not something I would recommend because your starter WILL hate you! And you might hate yourself when you have to replace that expensive thing...
Diesel ignites around 500 degrees if I remember. If the temperature outside is 40 degrees, then that's 460 degrees you're trying to build with each piston compression...
Try plugging the truck in while you're figurg out how the glow plug harness works.
Rick there is a couple tests you can do to the gp relay and the control box itself that might help you but if the wiring screwed up like mine was then your in for some work. Step one... wire it correctly... step 2 test the relay and control box... step 3 replace those bad gp's and anything else you find bad. Since I just went through rewiring mine it is fresh in my mind, if you chose to go that route let me know and I will help if I can.
I opted out of hooking up a "manual" system on mine due to the fact my wife and kids drive my truck from time to time and I didn't want them melting wires or killing gp's.
Thanks for the input,Its back in the 60s here blue,the truck dosent have a block heater.Im careful not to run the starter to hard,been there done that,yes they are expensive,The old relay on the fender is covered with rust, corrosion,whatever else is on there,Im going to have to start over im sure,the push button is fine for me,I am the only one that has ever driven the truck.Ive just dumped 500$ in the truck [IP,Injectors,return line kit]so I have to wait for another payday before I jump way in this time.I just got to get it in my head how to get it or drag this computor outside! Whats the best online place for the relay and glow plugs? A fellow will get raped locally buying that stuff
Rick there is a couple tests you can do to the gp relay and the control box itself that might help you but if the wiring screwed up like mine was then your in for some work. Step one... wire it correctly... step 2 test the relay and control box... step 3 replace those bad gp's and anything else you find bad. Since I just went through rewiring mine it is fresh in my mind, if you chose to go that route let me know and I will help if I can.
I opted out of hooking up a "manual" system on mine due to the fact my wife and kids drive my truck from time to time and I didn't want them melting wires or killing gp's.
You could use a set of temperature limiting GPs and not worry about burning up your GPs. I'm cheap and I also believe in the KISS principle, that's why I use Autolite 1109s or AC DELCO 12Gs. The terminal is different, but THEY wil NOT BURN UP. DO NOT PUT IN A GP FROM THE PARTS BOOKS. They are NOT self regulating and will self destruct at the first hiccup in the system. If you must use a stock controller, go ahead and buy the BERUs like everyone tells you. They will burn out if the ‘designed by American built by Chinese’ controller goes bad. My personal recommendation is install a manual button and use the AC 12Gs or Autolite 1109s. You will have to change the connector to a blade type. Crimp terminals should be readily available. They are temperature limiting and will not burn up no matter how heavy your finger gets. So it really depends on your ultimate goal. For the cost of the controller and GPs, I would go with temperature limiting and a button.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Oh by the way its going to be a low of 31 F tonight.
You could use a set of temperature limiting GPs and not worry about burning up your GPs. I'm cheap and I also believe in the KISS principle, that's why I use Autolite 1109s or AC DELCO 12Gs. The terminal is different, but THEY wil NOT BURN UP. DO NOT PUT IN A GP FROM THE PARTS BOOKS. They are NOT self regulating and will self destruct at the first hiccup in the system. If you must use a stock controller, go ahead and buy the BERUs like everyone tells you. They will burn out if the ‘designed by American built by Chinese’ controller goes bad. My personal recommendation is install a manual button and use the AC 12Gs or Autolite 1109s. You will have to change the connector to a blade type. Crimp terminals should be readily available. They are temperature limiting and will not burn up no matter how heavy your finger gets. So it really depends on your ultimate goal. For the cost of the controller and GPs, I would go with temperature limiting and a button.fficeffice" /><o>></o>>
Oh by the way its going to be a low of 31 F tonight.
use autolites at your own risk.just type in autolite glowplugs into google and look and see what pops up.nothing but forum posts about them causing headaches
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