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A good starter will wear on the batteries less and a starter on ebay runs about 95bucks.Put one on 3 weeks ago,seems good.Can't go if it won't start.... Also the longer your wait on the starter you drain your batts and work the alternator to recharge. On both my trucks when the starter went and I delayed weeks later the alt quit. Maybe coincedence IDK...
hmmm...good to know. $95 is better than the $155 at napa. at least i assume my issue is starter- about every half dozen starts or so i get nothing but a metallic grinding squeal. she does that twice and then she'll start fine again. then we repeat. what do u think?
hmmm...good to know. $95 is better than the $155 at napa. at least i assume my issue is starter- about every half dozen starts or so i get nothing but a metallic grinding squeal. she does that twice and then she'll start fine again. then we repeat. what do u think?
My guess is the starter is loose, the bendix on the starter is worn, (that's the little gear that makes contact with the teeth on the flywheel) or you have some teeth worn out on the flywheel. Those are my guesses.
X3 with the bendix I would change the starter they can do funny things sometimes making you think to look elswhere but 9 times out of ten with a problem like you are describing it will be the starter, I have had all sorts of weird problems with starters over the years the weirdest was the cover for the bendix arm was rotten and every time I would turn the key the bendix would kick out and the arm would ground out on the block and kill the batteries made all kinds of running issues with low batteries didn,t see the problem till I pulled the starter.
Ok, the grinding noise is the starter solenoid not forcing the bendix far enough to engage the flywheel.The solenoid is a big electromagnet.When activated it is supposed to engage the little starter gear with the flywheel.As mentioned in an earlier post the little wire that comes down to the starter activates it.As suggested running a new bigger wire would allow better current to better operate.That being said make sure your batteries and charging system is up to snuff.Weak batteries is less voltage to operate on. Mentioned before also was the arcing when bench testing,each time it does this it reduces voltage do to a dead short.Any voltage drop can shorten the strength needed to activate the starter.Remember each time you are starting the truck your glowplugs are also working,straining the system.I really think you need to change the starter,then charge your batteries on a long slow charge- overnight.
I've heard a lot of good things about these starters. They are a high torque starter so they don't have to work as hard to turn the engine over. Several people on here have used them and they're only $120
When I drive my truck daily I can start it in the single digits with little trouble. When I don't drive it a week it is difficult to start in the 20's. I hope that the starter will help.
ok, so flywheel is inside starter (haven't pulled it apart yet, just off the truck)? and bendix is the proper name for the wire connecting solenoid to starter? which in my case no longer has a cover since the arcing (before i knew about it) burned it off...
neat stuff, i learn a little more every day. so it looks like new starter should top the list and then batteries- they are on the low end of the "n" when the glow plugs go off unless it's real cold. i'm not super thrilled with em...one is an autocraft titanium that tests 867 cca and the other is new out of a 2010 diesel but only rated 650. however it was given to me so i could at least get her running so i can't complain.
my starter just hasn't been right since the flooding last november. add to that it's a made-in-japan reman...
ok, so flywheel is inside starter (haven't pulled it apart yet, just off the truck)? and bendix is the proper name for the wire connecting solenoid to starter? which in my case no longer has a cover since the arcing (before i knew about it) burned it off...
No the flywheel is the big gear inside the belhousing (where the starter bolts to) that gear is connected directly to the engine. The bendix is part of the starte. Basically you had em backwards. The sloenoid is th elittle round can like thing attached to the side of the starter where the wire used to come from.
Flywheel is connected to the engine,the starter turns the flywheel which starts the engine spinning until it can run on it's own. The bendix is a component in the starter that is used to connect the starter drive to the flywheel. Starter drive is the little gear on the end of the starter that spins when electricity is applied. Actually simpler than it sounds. And no it's not "stupid" to not understand just "stupid" if you want to understand and don't ask.
ah gotcha...it kinda makes sense. one of these days maybe i'll have the starter off in the daylight so i can SEE this stuff!
so these high torque starters...price is not too far off what i was planning on spending anyway. what exactly makes this one so much than a good new one from napa? it looks way different and bigger than what i have...no mods necessary to use it instead?
Your volts do not sound that bad when the glow plugs turn off. I have fairly new batts and it hangs around the "n" during that transition time.
I'm not too famaliar with the DB starter. The price scares me as I've been around larger CI engine starters that are considerably more expensive (naturally though).
The ratio must be different in order to get more torque?
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