as some of you know, i swapped a 76 F-150 supercab body onto my 78 F-250 singlecab frame...im having issues figuring out how to wire it all up...i thought i had it done with my own harness i made for the coil and dizzy, but last night i found extra connectors for the four wire connector coming out of the brain box...

after i did a bit of searching, and found this page:

1968 Ford F250 4x2 - '74-'79 Duraspark

it has some usefull info, like why some connectors were changed through the years ( to allow for voltage changes, and to not let people hook it up wrong)

here are diagrams for 76's and 78's..




for some reason the connector between the brain and dizzy, routes in and the out of my 76 cab....i dont know where they go inside, but according to this is shouldnt matter as long as i hook it up the way the pic shows...which by the way, IS how i did it on my own...i guess ill just leave the other plugs alone....i dont remember if the brain on my 78 body had that extra set of wires, but i dont think they would be crucial because its not in a high altitude area, which is what the barametric switch is for...or do i need to get a brain for a 78, because the 76 brain wont work on the 78 ignition??

 

I ran into the same wiring coming from out of the cab and around from the heater core outlet area on my 76 F150 4x4.

I ran the wires as you mentioned on your post and have had no electrical ignition problems. Ran the wires from ignition switch to module and module to distrubitor and coil.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...173904&width=0

 

cool, i figured someone else has went through this already..on your pic, the three connectors you can see between the air cleaner and master cylinder, i see two arent hooked up, what is the third hooked to?? is that were it comes from the ignition?? those are the second set of connectors i found, the first is right by the brain box....

 

How many wires are coming out of the ignition module you're using? Also, did you make sure to include the resistance wire in your harness? This is very important - don't run full 12 volts to the coil primary winding.

The only connections between the distributor and the ignition module should be ORANGE and PURPLE (Hall Effect sensor signal) and BLACK (ground). A fourth GREEN wire serves as the switched coil low potential. These four wires are bundled in one connector.

 

The two electrical connectors were the old ones and was eliminated.
The third electrical connector (first from left), one was used for the temperature sensor and the the other two I would need to look under the hood to figure out.
I remember double and triple checking the wires from module to distributor and coil and ignition.

 

If you don't have a wiring diagram for the 78 I can send you one. Just drop me an email to moose4x4@juno.com I will have to go to the library and use their fast internet. It takes to long to upload here at home. The brains should be the same? Do you have power at the coil + when key is on? When Cranking?

 

6 wires coming out of the current module...i have other modules, ill se what they have later....as for the resistance wire, it should still be intact, ill double check to be sure...from the fender by the module, i rewired in 5 wires, 3 to the dizzy, and 2 to the coil...the colors match up fine IIRC...1 wire to the coil from the module, one is coming out of the firewall, is that resistance wire inside the cab?? or is it the fusible link by the starter solenoid???

oh moose, thanks, i have several wiring diagrams i got from on here and off autozones website, if you want to pull up another i wouldnt be opposed...as for power at the coil, i havent tried to test anything yet, just getting it wired in first, hopefully ill be testing it very soon...man id love to ditch it all for a DUI dizzy and a painless wiring harness...but nobody gives that stuff away for free for some reason...lol..

 

Yes, the fusable link should be the one coming off the ignition switch (pink colored electrical resistance link).

Sorry late on the post, got some new snow here, and then working on the other vehicles.
On the three wires, one wire goes to the oil pressure sensor/ sender, the second wire goes to the temperature sensor / sender, and the third I'm quessing goes to the coil "+" positive side of coil pack.

On the Duraspark module (metal block with wires), mounts on driver side fender, I've seen the plastic where the wire pertude out, some being red color, black color and blue color. The blue colored as being the best of all these modules. Also, The two wires on ignition module duraspark, red wire and white wire, when this connection from module is made to wiring harness, the wiring color reverses. The red wire on duraspark module connects with the white wire on wiring harness and the white wire on duraspark module with the red wire on wiring harness (a bit confussing, and that is the it need to go).

 

The main question is which Duraspark system are you using?

You should be using the Blue Grommet module. This is the simplest and most reliable. If the truck is using a different color grommet module, I would convert it over to a blue grommet system anyway. All you would need is the module and distributor. Save you some headache as well.

It's more complicated than that. The above only happens if he's NOT using the ORIGINAL module that was installed from the factory. Aftermarket modules, and certain replacement motorcraft modules have the wiring reversed. The original Modules do not. However the idiot proof plug keeps things from being plugged in backwards.

Example Pic of how the wires reverses between the connector.




I have all the Factory wiring Diagrams between 1973 and 1988. Here is a scan of the 1982 wiring diagram. The 1978 diagram (that I don't have scanned) is almost identical except the tachometer.

Altenator and DS-II wiring, Blue Grommet.
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...l/scan0011.jpg