okay, I put everything back together and took it out for a test. the power steering seems to turn it back and forth just fine. that part seems good now. there is now a new problem related to these new ball joints (purchased from carquest). the lower ball joint appears to be longer than the original that i removed--substantially. now the yoke on the axleshafts and the caps onthe ujoint are catching the top of the new lower balljoint. the new u joint caps do protrude further than the original ujoint I replaced, but that combined with the added length of the lower ball joint post is causing them to contact when the hubs are locked. Has anyone ever heard of this. I'm pretty sure the carquest guy got me the right part since I purchased the lower ball joints in two separate visits. could the aftermarket part be made longer than it should be. I think I'll go check the moog ones (or just get the ones from the dealer) and compare the length of them with the old ball joint I took off the truck before installing them-again. not looking forward to taking the whole front end apart again...and re-doing the axle seal, etc.--havent even started on the drivers side yet.

 

Dang, never heard of that before... that sucks. It really sounds like you got some incorroect parts given to you...

 

Nice! I did not see that coming!

I was referring to the torquing sequence. My Moogs were the same as the OEM. Once you have pressed the new joints in, re-install the steering knuckle using the following sequence:

1. Torque the LOWER ball joint retaining nut to 35 lb-ft.
2. Torque the UPPER ball joint retaining nut to 69 lb-ft (and install cotter pin).
3. Torque the LOWER ball joint retaining nut to 150 lb-ft.

Again, that's the OEM spec, and the one that came with my Moogs. I don't know about other brands or instructions that come with them. I would follow any instructions provided by the manufacturer first before defaulting to the Ford procedure.

I have not heard of this either. My Moogs were an exact dimensional match, except for the zerk fittings. A couple of minutes with my Dremel tool and the upper zerk fitting clears my axle u-joint by a gnat's butt.

I have heard that Ford is finally offering greasable ball joints, but I don't know who supplies them.

 

I went and bought some moog ball joints. hope to take it apart tonight... I will def follow the torque sequence. the carquest ones didn't come with any, and the haynes manual doesn't say anything about that either. I did do the lower one partially first, then the upper completely, then back to the lower for final. I think I was going to 50 lb to start on the lower ones rather than the 35 you mention.

 

People have mentioned that the joints are tight for the first few thousand miles until the wear in a bit, but I followed the above torquing sequence and did not experience any of that. They've been great from the get go!

 

wow, I just finished tearing it back apart and installing the moog ball joint. what a difference. it pressed in with just the right amount of force, then it also fixed the tight knuckle problem. clearly a good example of a higher quality product. Makes the extra money more than worth it. I appreciate all the info.

 

i just had my balljoints replaced today, and they were Moogs...i had a mechanic put them in and he said he had to grind them down pretty good to make it so that the u joints would clear the tops of them in four by. He said he's had that happen a couple of times. Also, they seem to have a little bit of that tight steering 'memory' as well, but at least the truck doesn't buck and shutter when i stop anymore.

 

jsparrow: in some ways I'm glad to hear someone else has heard of the replacement being too tall... but I wonder if you got the right part--- once I put the new moog ball joint in, there is no clearance problem with the U joint anymore. Seems like the parts places really dont have a way to avoid that trouble when they are selling you thier product. did you buy the part or did your mechanic?

gotta get started on the other side now!

 

i bought them. by the way, it used to thunk when i stopped, now when i'm doing over seventy it just rattles like an f'n machine gun. Rotors?

 

My Moogs fit just fine. The only thing I had to do was grind just a bit off the top of the zerk (round it out on top) so that the upper joint zerk would clear my axle u-joint for my 4x4. I didn't have to do anything else to them, they were a perfect fit. Had I left my zerk out, there would have been zero clearance issues. Also, my Moogs felt firmer, but never stiff.

If it was warped rotors, then they have to be REALLY warped to do that when the brakes are not being applied (the pulsing usually doesn't happen until you are actually on the brakes, although you could have one dragging). It could be:

Bad caliper (dragging brakes)
Bad alignment (toe issues)
Bad tire (separating)
Tire(s) out of balance
Bad shocks (old, worn, damaged)
Section of road

It's hard to say with the complete description of "f'n machine gun" . I'm sure I've left some things out and others will chime in. If you can, please give more info so we can help narrow it down. Is it in the front? Rear? Both? Do you feel it under acceleration, coasting, cruising, braking? Does it come through the steering wheel? Floorboard? Are there any associated noises or certain circumstances when this happens?

 

Sorry i didn't state that clearly. I rattles visciously when i'm coming to a stop or slow after running highway speeds. Not constantly
The truck was just aligned so i don't think that's the issue. The tires have about 2,000 miles on them, but it could very well be the weights are off. I'd just assume that if that were the case they'd wobble all the time not just when i'm stopping. Also, i replaced the shocks around the same time as the tires, and i know the front shocks can cause a shutter if they're loose. I've checked the torque values on them about four times since the replacement out of paranoia and it doesn't seem to be the problem. Whats weird is that the pulsing and rattling got more rapid AFTER the balljoint replacement.

 

If it's while you are stopping, it sounds like a rotor. Ford trucks are known to warp rotors (my F-150 did and so does my 250) so it would not be uncommon. Mine aren't too bad yet.

Nice paint color by the way!

 

jsparrow,
sorry Ive been off the post for a while. I was working on my truck!

All the clearance problems are fixed, and I replaced the sway bar end links which drastically improved my loose steering and crazyness after bumps (also mysterious popping over certain bumps)

Regarding the vibration you are hearing/experiencing. I did the ball joints when I was working in that general area because what started the whole thing was exactly what you are speaking of. usually at high speeds in 2 wheel drive on the highway It would come out of no where or after a bump. if you lock the hubs it didn't happen.

That is caused by the Spindle bearing (which is what the axleshaft rotates in when in 2 wheel drive) being shot. I ended up just replacing both my front hub assemblies, but many people just replace that spindle bearing (much cheaper) if the rest of the hub is fine. The thing to look at is a bit more involved though-- on mine the main axleshaft seal (I think its called) was shot-- the one on the back of the knuckle--as well as the seal at the axle tube housing(although this one seems less important). I figure once the main seal is gone, it lets water, salt, dirt, grime in to that spindle bearing and makes it dry out real quick, then as the bearing fails, it scores the axleshaft (mine was scored a little, but I didn't replace it--hopefully not to haunt me later) allowing it to rattle around in the spindle bearing violently--causing the vibration sound up front.

there are some good posts about this problem, and it really wasnt that tough of a job. your symptoms sound very similar. let me know if you need additional info, I searched it out pretty good and found some good instructionals.

 

damn there's so many little things that you wouldn't think of to look at right off the bat. Its gets expensive quickly replacing parts trying to find the problem. Thanks!