i knew my lower ball joint was bad, so i tore it apart tonight. i noticed once i got the knuckle off there is a little bit of slop ( little bit ) in the upper ball joint. i can just barely make it move with my hand. so, i'm already replacing the lower and u joint. i got online to check the price, and i see that it comes with some sort of sleeve that adjusts the camber??
1. i think i should replace the upper bj, right?
2. how do i "set" this camber thing? i don't see one on my bj now..but i may not know what i'm looking at (?). honestly looking at the picture of the new bj, i dont see where it exactly goes either.
3. whats the torque of the wheel bearing nut/lock nut?

step by step or even advice, i would greatly appreciate. trying to get it done tommorow night so i can go wheel it saturday

 

That piece is for setting the preload on the ball joint, you need a special socket to tighten it down on the ball joint.

 

so i thread that onto the threads on the ball joint? how far do i go with it? and when do i put it on, once the knuckle is in place (with the lower ball joint in place and upper) or when i have it "on the bench".

 

The bushing threads into the location of your upper ball joint in the"C" or inner knuckles it can't be seen until you remove the knuckles, after pressing your new ball joints into your knuckles install the knuckles, torque the lower ball joint to 80 ft lbs then tighten the preload bushing to 50 ft lbs then last tighten the upper ball joint to 100 ft lbs and install cotter pin, DONE.

Make sure you use the proper socket (no hammer and chisel)to tighten the preload bushing, this is a critical step to insure the ball joints will last as long as possible! also make sure you install the new snap rings supplied on the lower ball joint.

Tip: press the upper ball joint into knuckle first .
The Spanner socket is available at NAPA, AUTO ZONE, ADVANCED AUTO and other parts stores, it may not be in stock but most can have it next day and i have seen them from $12. to $35.

NAPA part number BK 7002467
Advanced Auto part number OTC7080

 

so i should beable to see the old one somewhere though right? like, have to remove it still? thank you for the response though!

 

Sent you a PM

 

Hi, This information is a life saver. I couldn't find help like this any where on the net. Thanks! I hope you still use this site. One question, how is the alignment done. Does there need to be a bushing / shim on top of the sleeve? Thanks again.

 

That threaded insert has nothing to do with alignment it just sets the pre-load on the ball joint. Mine where very difficult to get out, use plenty of penetratring oil.

 

Hi, I'm lucky the sleeve seems to turn easy enough. How ever the prongs on the tool I made during the week, could not hold up to the torque. So was not able to torque them down. How ever, I noticed the the sleeve was quite deep, say 5-6 mm. Is this common?


I'll try to get the tool. But I live in Australia, so it may be costly and take time to get one here.
About that depth though?
Thanks

 

I had problems with my '74 Dodge Dana 44 upper ball joint spacer thingie too. The OTC Ball Joint Spanner Wrench No. 7080 would slip out and I couldn't get it to stay on. So I used a bolt and nut and some washers to hold it in and on:





needs moah TORQUE!

 

Yes mine was deep as well, probably close to 5-6 mm would be about right

 

Thanks Guys for the replies.


When you used the bolt to hold the tool in place, I'm guessing you torqued it with out the ball joint in the C section?


I've managed to lose one of the plastic gaskets / spacers for where the spindle and knuckle bolt together. Is this really needed?
Because I don't know where I will get one from!


Thanks,

 

I installed the knuckle with new Napa Chassis ball joints exactly as the manual and how you stated above. The knuckle is really stiff to rotate. Is this normal and will break in some or what did I do wrong?

 

No, not normal and there is a spec for that. The pressure to move it should not exceed 26lbs if I remember the spec correctly, as seen on a pull-scale (fishing scale?).
Before re-adjusting though, be sure to grease any fittings. Does not always fix this issue, but sometimes does.

Are both ball-joints pressed into their holes fully down to the shoulder flanges?
Did you use 40lbs as your sleeve adjustment torque? In fact, were you even able to reach 40lbs? A huge issue these days with the replacement parts is that you can literally thread that preload sleeve all the way in and then out the bottom before it reaches specified torque. One member of another forum recently was not able to even reach 20lbs before the sleeve came out the bottom. I've run into this several times in the last ten years and it's just another frustration of inferior manufacture of parts. So I use a rule-of-thumb that if you see two full threads of the sleeve sticking out of the bottom of the steering yoke (what people are calling the "inner-C") then I just stop and torque the nuts and test the pull tension.
If it falls between 10 and 20 pounds and I don't feel any play in the joints I lock it down and call it good. Sad, but that's the state of our modern parts.

And something to add to what was said in the older parts of this thread, there ARE versions of the sleeve that are offset/eccentric in order to adjust the alignment slightly. Max rated at 1.5° offset, you can move the ball joint stud to the rear to adjust positive caster, or to the inside/outside to adjust negative/positive camber. Or a combination.
Some ball joints come with a new sleeve, some don't. Included sleeves however are all standard non-offset as far as I know. Offset sleeves are purchased separately.
Might have been mentioned in the thread before, but I did not see it as I glossed through old posts.

Paul

 

I have put a lot in over the years and I have never torqued one to specs. I just tighten them to where I like the feel and call it good, never had any problem.