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The long story: (btw just bought this truck and i'm new to ford)
Alright so i had stopped at the store,when i came out car wouldn't start. So it seemed to be the battery so i put an extra i had on it. Still wouldn't start,noticed the starter selenoid wasn't working so i changed that.The battery terminals were beaten up,but managed to get it were it started. So i drove back to were i have it stored and the car just dies on the highway,i pulled over and tried to crank it but after the key returned IT KEPT CRANKING. It wouldn't stop, so i jumped out and saw the (-)terminal wire's plastic cover was melting so i pulled it out and it stopped.
Question: What would have kept the truck cranking even after i turned the switch off and the key was out?
When you continually cranked the truck over the contacts inside the soleniod on the fender probably welded themselves together acting as if you were still turning the key.
soo, lets say the worst would be having to replace the new solenoid right ? I was gonna replace the terminals with the gold ones anyway.(Ever since i did this on my Vw all my electrical gremlins went away).BTW thanks for the quick response.
Question: What would have kept the truck cranking even after i turned the switch off and the key was out?
Probably just a defective solenoid. There have been a lot of cases of this on this forum and other forums like this one. I even had two genuine Ford solenoids do this that were probably the originals on the vehicles, they were over 15 years old at the time though. I found out the best thing to do when you have a sticking solenoid, is give it a few karate chops. This always released them for me.
When you buy a replacement solenoid, don't get a cheap one. The ones fron Autozone seemed to be the worst(what I learned from these forums). Despite what I said above, a genuine Ford may be the best buy. Although you may pay up to 3 or 4 times as much for one.
hmm... personally i have always ran the cheap autozone siloniods and they havnt ever given me a trouble, maybe im lucky??? lol
but yes that definately sounds like a sticking solonoid there, autozone ( i know i know you all say they suck lol ) has the duralast gold solonoid for 19.99 ( for a 90 f250 351 ) but i believe they are all the same solonoids ( anyone know for sure )
Advance starter relays tend toward crap, too. Only took four before I got one to last longer than a week last time. And I still carry the OEM one from my parts truck in a box just in case the Advance one craps out again.
Alright so before as soon as i'd connect the (-) side (with the starter on the relay) it would start to turn the starter over on its own. Now i changed the relay and it didn't happen. The ign switch actuator(rod) isn't broken so i changed the starter switch, this time as soon as i turned the key to "start" you could hear the relay but it wouldn't turn over ...then a pop and smoke came from the new relay. Also the key cylinder on the ign. doesn't return on its own after you hit "start". Before I tried cranking i hooked up the obd I scanner and it just showed it was connected but wouldn't cycle kinda like if the ECU wasn't responding to the request. Any ideas? I'm getting frustrated wondering why i bought this truck! .................thanks.
I nad a 91 ford that did that It burned up 3 starters and 2 selinoids b4 I figured out what to do... also my ignition switch did the same thing so i ran 2 wires to the celenoid and to a momentary connect switch under the dash and every thing was fine after that. so if all else fails. that is a cheap way to do it
haha....so keep the solenoid just unplug the S terminal (coming from the switch) and add a wire from the + side to one side of the new switch,the other to the Starter terminal on the solenoid . Basically doing the same thing the switch would do if everything was working fine. So what type of switch did you use? wire gauge ? thanks
guess i may do this, i'm too mad to keep going.lol
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