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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #1  
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From: charlotte,nc
Need help

The long story: (btw just bought this truck and i'm new to ford)
Alright so i had stopped at the store,when i came out car wouldn't start. So it seemed to be the battery so i put an extra i had on it. Still wouldn't start,noticed the starter selenoid wasn't working so i changed that.The battery terminals were beaten up,but managed to get it were it started. So i drove back to were i have it stored and the car just dies on the highway,i pulled over and tried to crank it but after the key returned IT KEPT CRANKING. It wouldn't stop, so i jumped out and saw the (-)terminal wire's plastic cover was melting so i pulled it out and it stopped.

Question: What would have kept the truck cranking even after i turned the switch off and the key was out?

-Thanks for the help!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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When you continually cranked the truck over the contacts inside the soleniod on the fender probably welded themselves together acting as if you were still turning the key.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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soo, lets say the worst would be having to replace the new solenoid right ? I was gonna replace the terminals with the gold ones anyway.(Ever since i did this on my Vw all my electrical gremlins went away).BTW thanks for the quick response.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:00 PM
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88n94
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Originally Posted by mrurbina

Question: What would have kept the truck cranking even after i turned the switch off and the key was out?

Probably just a defective solenoid. There have been a lot of cases of this on this forum and other forums like this one. I even had two genuine Ford solenoids do this that were probably the originals on the vehicles, they were over 15 years old at the time though. I found out the best thing to do when you have a sticking solenoid, is give it a few karate chops. This always released them for me.

When you buy a replacement solenoid, don't get a cheap one. The ones fron Autozone seemed to be the worst(what I learned from these forums). Despite what I said above, a genuine Ford may be the best buy. Although you may pay up to 3 or 4 times as much for one.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 12:02 AM
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hmm... personally i have always ran the cheap autozone siloniods and they havnt ever given me a trouble, maybe im lucky??? lol

but yes that definately sounds like a sticking solonoid there, autozone ( i know i know you all say they suck lol ) has the duralast gold solonoid for 19.99 ( for a 90 f250 351 ) but i believe they are all the same solonoids ( anyone know for sure )
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 07:48 AM
  #6  
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Advance starter relays tend toward crap, too. Only took four before I got one to last longer than a week last time. And I still carry the OEM one from my parts truck in a box just in case the Advance one craps out again.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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yeah the one I bought was a cheaper priced one from advance hows oriely's or pepboys?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 11:10 AM
  #8  
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They are probably all made in the same factory in China.
Like was said it's a roll of the dice.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #9  
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just called ford .$40 with 1yr warranty. Lets see how it goes. Thanks for the help guys
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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Alright so before as soon as i'd connect the (-) side (with the starter on the relay) it would start to turn the starter over on its own. Now i changed the relay and it didn't happen. The ign switch actuator(rod) isn't broken so i changed the starter switch, this time as soon as i turned the key to "start" you could hear the relay but it wouldn't turn over ...then a pop and smoke came from the new relay. Also the key cylinder on the ign. doesn't return on its own after you hit "start". Before I tried cranking i hooked up the obd I scanner and it just showed it was connected but wouldn't cycle kinda like if the ECU wasn't responding to the request. Any ideas? I'm getting frustrated wondering why i bought this truck! .................thanks.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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I nad a 91 ford that did that It burned up 3 starters and 2 selinoids b4 I figured out what to do... also my ignition switch did the same thing so i ran 2 wires to the celenoid and to a momentary connect switch under the dash and every thing was fine after that. so if all else fails. that is a cheap way to do it
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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haha....so keep the solenoid just unplug the S terminal (coming from the switch) and add a wire from the + side to one side of the new switch,the other to the Starter terminal on the solenoid . Basically doing the same thing the switch would do if everything was working fine. So what type of switch did you use? wire gauge ? thanks

guess i may do this, i'm too mad to keep going.lol
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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humm welcome to the SITE ah ha
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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What year is your truck mrurbina? I'm trying to imagine what is going on here.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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1991 f150 xlt lariat 4x4. Auto. I've only owned VWs so i don't know much about fords or trucks, so it's just frustrating.lol
 
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