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What are the symptoms for a bad torque conv.? My truck will usually spin wheels throughout 1st but every now and then if I punch it, it doesnt spin at all. Also getting a metal slapping noise when at half to full throttle. Seems as though all around performance has gone down alot. Would the torque conv. affect anything even after launch? Like can it be slipping a little all the time? Thanks for any help. I dont know what else it could be.
Check to see what the oil looks like on the "stick". Better yet is to drop the trans pan and look for metallic particles in the pan or filter. Torque converters use a sprag (one-way clutch) inside the stator, and if either failed, there most likely will be metal in the oil. The stator is what makes the torque converter multiply engine torque - without, we have only a fluid coupling.... If the fluid smells burned, chances are there's burned clutch plates in the trans...
I doubt you have a torque converter problem if there is no metal in the pan AND the fluid isn't burnt. I recommend pulling the pan. You can check the engine stall speed and compare to the spec's just to be sure.
The blades of the impeller, turbine, and stator don't ever wear out unless the oil is contaminated with metal (sandblasting effect) or the converter's bushings/bearings have failed (rare). I have learned that it's usually the component least understood is blamed for the unexplainable problem.
Is this in a full-time 4WD truck (NP203 chains will slip at lower speeds when loose)? If yes, try removing the front driveshaft and test-driving in 4LOC.
It doesnt have 4 wheel drive. It will launch ok if I stall it but just varies widely in launch without stalling it, thats why I cant figure out what it is.
I discovered that the thrust bearing was bad, and the crank was walking in my 302 last summer. The initial symptom was a metal scrapping sound caused by the flexplate rubbing against the thin shield between the bellhousing and block. Before that, there sometimes was a delay before the tranny would engage. I later figured out that monentum from coming to a stop sign would carry the crank foward. I discovered that I could grab the harmonic balancer and pull the crank a good 1/4" in and out of the block. After pulling the engine and dissasembling, I saw uneven main bearing and rod bearing wear, and had the crank checked out by a machine shop. It was reported as bent. You might check for this by seeing whether you can pull the crank at the balancer.
Since your truck is 2WD, that rules out transfer case chain jumping.
BigBrownTruck's converter was moving enough axially to dump part of the oil out of the converter circuit, thus the poor performance. Checking crankshaft endplay is quick & easy - shouldn't be more than about .010". I'd check endplay first.
If the endplay is OK, I'd suggest connecting a 0-300psi gauge on the pressure port (near the shift lever on a C-6). Watch the oil pressure with the vacuum line disconnected from the modulator. It should be relatively steady over the engine speed range while driving. If the pressure falls off alot as the engine slows to an idle, there is an internal leak in the trans.