Changed two sensors do not know what it is. I am going to change all the ignition such as spark plug wires and rotor and distrubitor cap this weekend. Well be driving and just cuts off wait a couple of minutes and turns back on. Then will not do it for a couple of days. What do you think it is I need suggestions. It is a 1996 5.8

 

Does it happen when you are turning? it might be the fuel tank filter being clogged by something. Also check the connector on the top of the fuel tank. I don't think the distributor has nothing to do, unless the cap is free and it wobbles back and forth.

 

IS there any other electrical type problems? Mine was stalling randomly, but my radio and power windows were cutting out randomly too, turned out the ignition switch was essentially disintegrating. Changed it and it's been running proper since.

 

does not happen when I am turning always when about to stop or when I am idiling only one time did it turn off when I was driving at high speed. No other electrical promblems

 

nobody can help

 

A bad ignition module can have symptoms like that.

 

Sounds like an electrical problem to me. being that it is intermintent, mabey its a noise wire or contact some where. I was once told that if it dosent make since its more than likely a ground problem.

 

1. Pull codes
2. Pull codes

I chased that problem for about a year. Your 1996 has different sensors and emissions than previous EFI. It would take many many pages for the story but i I were you I would start with oxygen sensor. Here is why...the first thing I did was replace the air inlet tube with one from a 460 to "give it more air". Then after ignition control modules (3) distributors (3) coil, wires, plug, dismantling wiring harness looking for resistor which is not on my model, ECT, ACT I replaced the oxygen sensor even though there were clear codes and it ran MUCH better. However, when the cruise control let off the gas going down a hill the CEL came on. I reinstalled the stock air tube to the air box and all is well. I only buy Motorcraft sensors.

In summary, the air/fuel ratio may be it. Pull codes.

 

I am going to take the module off then try the oxygen sensor

 

cannot seem to find the right bolt for the ignition module. Mine is on the fender well I have tried a deep socket 5MM 5.5MM 7/32 They all do not fit. Anybody know the right size

 

There is a special wrench for it but Ii did not know it at the time. I took the ICM and heat sink assy to the Zone and their deep socket fits it. I THINK it is 5/32 but not sure if I remember correctly..

 

yeah 7/32 I had that tool but when I took it off the heat shield had to angle it to get in there. After all that the ignition module checked out to be allright. So I changed the ignition coil and has not turned off since. Hope that is it.

 

Same problem, different truck...I have an 82 with a 93 351w, still has the serp belt but has been converted to a carb motor with a 4bbl. It stalls randomly...but only on the highway. I had it off road for a good 4 hours today and didnt have a single problem. I got back on the highway and got up to 55 and it just died, (speed doesnt seem to be a factor, does it randomly). I have an aftermarket tach hooked to the neg coil wire, Ive noticed that when it dies, the tach drops hard to 0. even if I down shift and drop the clutch to try to push start it back up, the motor revs from the combustion but the tach stays at 0...then just as random as it shut off, it turns right back on and the tach comes to life. Somtimes I have to get all the way stopped and actually crank it. I no longer have a key start, I put the ignition on 2 15amp switches and a push start button. It had this problem before tho. No other accesories seem to be affected, radio, heater, and lights all still work when it does it.

 

It was the Coil has not turned off in a couple of days

 

still turning off, engine light came on again and the code was for a faulty crankcase sensor. already changed it so it has to be a ground wire. The question is where do i start?