t19 input shaft alignment??
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
I have an assortment of input shafts I have kept out of various trannys but also have aline up tool that fits most but is not splined. If you just swapped your tranny and didn't mess with the clutch it should be lined up.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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thats exactly what im doing but the smallest part of the input shaft ( tip) is outa whack and im really getting frustrated cause the first tranny swap it went in easily but its somehow off 1/8 to 1/4 inch now .. me and dad have been tryin to muscle itvin b4 tom. cause i have to plow and were bout exhausted after 3 hours of tryin to get it to line up
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
Not sure how you're going about it, but the most important part is having the clutch centred on the flywheel when assembled. There are alignment tools available to do that while you bolt on the pressure plate.
If that has been done, next step is to line up the housings. I've often used extra long bolts to hold them in place, then you get things started to join up. Keep the spacing equal between the engine and bell housing. Next, either rotate the engine or transmission shaft to line up the splines. (Ideally leave the tranny in gear and you can turn the output shaft to line them up, the gear that is 1:1 ratio is best for this.)
If that has been done, next step is to line up the housings. I've often used extra long bolts to hold them in place, then you get things started to join up. Keep the spacing equal between the engine and bell housing. Next, either rotate the engine or transmission shaft to line up the splines. (Ideally leave the tranny in gear and you can turn the output shaft to line them up, the gear that is 1:1 ratio is best for this.)
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
84 while you have it on the ground measure your new input shaft against the old one and make shure the splines match and the pilot on the end too.
Make sure there no burrs on the end or on the splines.
Make sure there no burrs on the end or on the splines.
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Posting Guru
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its the original trans out of the truck the shaft is correct .. i did not change the clutch either .. where do i get this fancy alignment tool ? were still struggling ...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Did you get the original rebuilt.
Parts houses usually have a universal alignment tool. I dont like them but they are better than nothing.
Oh yea you do loosen the pressure bolts to realine the clutch.
When you were trying to stab it were you getting the splines to start in.
Parts houses usually have a universal alignment tool. I dont like them but they are better than nothing.
Oh yea you do loosen the pressure bolts to realine the clutch.
When you were trying to stab it were you getting the splines to start in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
Here's my trick for you. On these trucks, since they have that nice big removable dust plate, and with it removed you can get at the pressure plate bolts, I do these clutches big rig style. Hang the clutch and pressure plate on the input shaft with the trans bolted to the bellhousing, get the bellhousing bolted up, which will be pretty easy as you only need to line up the input and dowel pins. Then slide the clutch and pp forward and bolt it up.
If you want to do it the alignment tool way, a 1/2" extension and some electrical tape is usually all I use. It isn't a ferfect fit in the pilot, but it usually works well.
If you want to do it the alignment tool way, a 1/2" extension and some electrical tape is usually all I use. It isn't a ferfect fit in the pilot, but it usually works well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Wait I leave the throw out bearing on the clutch release fork.
Get two long bolts that will thread into the adapter plate, 6 or 8 inch long ones.
Now cut the heads off and thread them into two of the side holes.
Get the transmission/bell housing on the end of the bolts in the correct holes.
Now you can raise and lower the back of the transmission as you slide it forward, the long bolts keep the front in alignment.
If you can get the transmission in a gear, it also helps to turn the tranny output shaft so the input splines can mesh with the clutch disc hub splines.
Also does the transmission have a pilot bearing on the shaft and one is already in the crank?
If you never removed the clutch pressure plate the clutch disc should already be in alignment.
But the transmission needs to slide straight in and the input shaft has to be turned just right so the splines line up.
Get two long bolts that will thread into the adapter plate, 6 or 8 inch long ones.
Now cut the heads off and thread them into two of the side holes.
Get the transmission/bell housing on the end of the bolts in the correct holes.
Now you can raise and lower the back of the transmission as you slide it forward, the long bolts keep the front in alignment.
If you can get the transmission in a gear, it also helps to turn the tranny output shaft so the input splines can mesh with the clutch disc hub splines.
Also does the transmission have a pilot bearing on the shaft and one is already in the crank?
If you never removed the clutch pressure plate the clutch disc should already be in alignment.
But the transmission needs to slide straight in and the input shaft has to be turned just right so the splines line up.
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