53 f100 hood adjustments
YES reverse hood kit...there were several threads with this discussions with almost everyone coming to same conclusion "you may have to do the hood dance to get it closed" mine was the same way until I got the reverse hood kit.
before you go to the expense of a forward tilt hood try oiling up the hinges that you have. replace the hood bumpers and the cowl lacing. to adjust the hood loosen up the nuts that hold the hinges to the cowl. there are 4 per side. You can get to 2 each under the hood the others are accessed from inside the truck. After replacing all the bumpers and cowl lacing loosen all eight nuts so that they are finger tight. Remove the latch assembly. Close the hood and shift it to obtain as good of a fit at the cowl as you can, gaps can be from a 1/8" to a 1/4" or better. when you have the gaps as good as you can get them without opening the hood, tighten the 4 nuts that you can get at on the inside of truck. lift hood and get the other 4 tightened. Now you will have to adjust the fenders to match the hood. The fenders can be adjusted to move forward or back app. a 1/4", and can be moved side to side with the strut rods. After the Hood and fenders are as good as you can get them, or when you get tired of trying to get all that metal to line up, you can put the hood latch back in and adjust that. I have been working at getting mine to line up for weeks and still do not have it the way I would like it. I wonder if these trucks ever were lined up that well? You will still have to pat the hood down at the back corners when closing it, they were always like that. Good Luck.
Check out a shop manual i was looking through mine when i first got it and found a lot of good information on hood and fender alignment and they go in dept on different problem areas. pretty cool
Thanks everyone. I've done all those things. was really hoping that someone knew a trick to get the hood to drop in at the cowl. I hate the idea that it will have to be pushed down on those rear corners each time it is closed.
Sounds like another customer for reverse tilt hood to me. I have never regretted doing mine. Joe
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I have posted this many times before, but for those who may not have seen it:
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.











