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what can i do????

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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #16  
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BigBlueOx
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From: Rusty, Maine
Sure but won't he have to take the timing cover off to add the roller for the mech. fuel pump?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #17  
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It already was a running 1985 351- going into a truck that had a efi 302.
It should already have the eccentric if it already has the mechanical fuel pump.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #18  
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alright so i eliminated the high pressure fuel pump totally by disconnecting the wires and as long as i have the feed line from the mechanical pump in a jerry can it runs!... but it doesnt seem that the low pressure pump supplys enough fuel to keep it running. do i have to change the whole fuel system including the line and tank or is there a way to eliminate all electric pumps and have a line coming from mechanical pump straight to tank? my truck has the dual tanks with the tank splitter mounted on frame by the way
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 05:37 PM
  #19  
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alright so i eliminated the high pressure fuel pump totally by disconnecting the wires and as long as i have the feed line from the mechanical pump in a jerry can it runs!... but it doesnt seem that the low pressure pump supplys enough fuel to keep it running. do i have to change the whole fuel system including the line and tank or is there a way to eliminate all electric pumps and have a line coming from mechanical pump straight to tank? my truck has the dual tanks with the tank splitter mounted on frame by the way.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #20  
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From: Humble,Tx
Originally Posted by Hitokori
ok it would be a better idea to get a high quality pressure regulator and keep the electric pump the distributors are the same for the 302 and 351 and since u arent going to be using the ecu u should prolly go with the one that has the vacuum advance....
This is what I'd do bro. if you were to do this though you wouldn't need the mechanical pump you'd then run a line from the fuel pressure regulator straight to the fuel inlet of the carburetor and presto your in business. and provided you go this route there'd be absolutely no reason to change anything relating to the dual tanks
 
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #21  
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cool beans guys. k what we i ended up doing was just ran a line straight from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump and plugged off the other outlet on the tank and it worked graet and ended up being very simple, it runs now and took it for a spin last night but im not getting a charge anymore, could i use the voltage regulator off of the 87's alternator or should a just get one that's an older style and mount it to the side panel? eihter way i also need to know where the altenator indicator (or charging guage, I think is the same thing) wire is and what it's color code is (maybe a thorough wiring diagram if anyone could) then i think i will get a charge then.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #22  
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I know this is a late response, I haven't been on the internet.

Here are color coded wiring schematics from Ford Fuel Injection for the various alternators;

1G: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/pub...ALT_wiring.gif

2G: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/pub...ALT_wiring.gif

3G: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/pub...ALT_wiring.gif
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #23  
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alright so i had the altenator hooked up to what i thought made sense. i hade the three altenator wires hooked up to a 4 prong regulator with one wire from the regulator going to the starter relay/solenoid. it was charging good for all of six seconds about before smoke started to appear under the dash and it wouldnt run anymore. i realized that the chime box under the dash was burnt out and now i have power going to the coil from the ignition module but no power coming out of the coil. S**t! does anybody know if that chime box is more than just a chime box? or could it be that i may have burnt out the pick up coil in the distributor? i am royally stumped and have no clue what to do from here. i have also decided that once it runs again that i will just use an altenator with a built in regulator like i should have done in the first place instead of jimmying it to a different regulator.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #24  
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hey guys and my regulator heats up really bad when key is in run position could that just be a wiring problem???
 
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #25  
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alright so the engine swap went great! its driveable now and has way more power than before. but since we went from efi to carb, and the transmission was electronically controlled, we do not have overdrive anymore and it wont shift out of 4x4 anymore either. is there anything i can do to solve that problem or is my only choice changing the transmission? if anybody could help me it would be much appreciated.
 
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