help needed/cold start rough idle
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help needed/cold start rough idle
Hello,
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I know, I know the title sounds just like the other cold start threads but I am new to this 7.3 ownership thing! Basically here’s what I am working with. My truck will not start on cold morning unless plugged in all night.(30-40 degrees) Even being plugged it takes at least 12-20 revolutions of the starter to crank the truck. Once started it runs rough until fully warmed up (20-30 mins run time). When first started it blows no smoke at all, and I mean none at all! Power is also low until warm and it’s a gradual power re-gain not all at once. Here’s what I have done so far after two days of reading posts here:
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First replaced both batteries, replaced the solenoid for the GP’s and checked all the under dash fuses! Next, I have checked the injectors and GP with an ohm meter. To my surprise I found 7 bad GP’s! I have since changed all 8. I have also installed both quarters into the harness and re-torque the injector and rocker arm bolts. The injector’s all checked out ok but, does not mean I could have one going out. I have also changed the oil to rotella 5-40 synthetic and let me tell you she runs and sounds better!**** One draw back I have a bad leak start on the drivers side under the manifold.*** Looks like a large tube and runs along the side of the block. The oil seems to coming from the front of the “tube” where it meets up with the block. Could this be why my truck will not start on cold mornings or afternoons? I also noticed a sensor at one end of this “tube” which seems to monitor oil I think. I have no check engine lights nor does my tach jump around when starting. It just will not start even at 50-60 degree weather.
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1999 Ford F350, 7.3 turbo diesel, 2 WD dually, 290,xxx miles, I have owner this truck for approximately 2 months!
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Please help…..
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>I know, I know the title sounds just like the other cold start threads but I am new to this 7.3 ownership thing! Basically here’s what I am working with. My truck will not start on cold morning unless plugged in all night.(30-40 degrees) Even being plugged it takes at least 12-20 revolutions of the starter to crank the truck. Once started it runs rough until fully warmed up (20-30 mins run time). When first started it blows no smoke at all, and I mean none at all! Power is also low until warm and it’s a gradual power re-gain not all at once. Here’s what I have done so far after two days of reading posts here:
<o
></o><o
></o>First replaced both batteries, replaced the solenoid for the GP’s and checked all the under dash fuses! Next, I have checked the injectors and GP with an ohm meter. To my surprise I found 7 bad GP’s! I have since changed all 8. I have also installed both quarters into the harness and re-torque the injector and rocker arm bolts. The injector’s all checked out ok but, does not mean I could have one going out. I have also changed the oil to rotella 5-40 synthetic and let me tell you she runs and sounds better!**** One draw back I have a bad leak start on the drivers side under the manifold.*** Looks like a large tube and runs along the side of the block. The oil seems to coming from the front of the “tube” where it meets up with the block. Could this be why my truck will not start on cold mornings or afternoons? I also noticed a sensor at one end of this “tube” which seems to monitor oil I think. I have no check engine lights nor does my tach jump around when starting. It just will not start even at 50-60 degree weather.
<o
></o><o
></o>1999 Ford F350, 7.3 turbo diesel, 2 WD dually, 290,xxx miles, I have owner this truck for approximately 2 months!
<o
></o>Please help…..
Last edited by cojo1; Jan 1, 2010 at 09:41 PM. Reason: oil
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thanks billybob. I found what the "tube" is, a oil cooler. it does not seem that it would effect the starting problem I have. I guess the parts store will have all the oil rings and gaskets for the oil cooler?
any help on the starting issue would still help as this is my daily driver....would not start after work and had a friend give me a jump and after three GP cycles and two minutes of starting it finally started up. ran rough halfway home and them cleared up!
any help on the starting issue would still help as this is my daily driver....would not start after work and had a friend give me a jump and after three GP cycles and two minutes of starting it finally started up. ran rough halfway home and them cleared up!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
You've done all the basic stuff.
It's time to hook up Auto Enginuity and start some datalogging.
However, is the high pressure oil sensor ok? No oil inside if you unplug it?
The other thing to check is whether the wiring is chafed where it passes over the valve cover.
It's time to hook up Auto Enginuity and start some datalogging.
However, is the high pressure oil sensor ok? No oil inside if you unplug it?
The other thing to check is whether the wiring is chafed where it passes over the valve cover.
you can't fix stupid!
Joined: Mar 2008
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Likes: 2
the oil cooler is and easy fix just time consuming since you have to drain the oil and coolant to take it out. i recommend you find an international dealer near you to get the gaskets and o-rings needed for the oil cooler. if you dont have one near by the next best price is guzzle's website. when you take the oil cooler out (i think 5 bolts iirc) mark the cooler on both sides so when you put it back together you line it up correctly and its straight. you dont have to move and engine mounts or raise or drop anything to get it out just takes a little fanagling. the end you just tap off with a rubber mallet and the rest is self explanatory when you get it apart. i had to do mine since i cracked my oil filter housing installing my bypass oil filter..........
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I checked the HPOP this morning and had plenty of oil! where is this high pressure oil sensor? at this point I will try anything....
still no luck, it took about 20 mins to start. I did see alot of white smoke toward the end of the starting cycle. keep in mind I did not plug the truck in last night. I just had to charge the batteries for about an hour this morning.
how much coolant will come out when I drain it?
still no luck, it took about 20 mins to start. I did see alot of white smoke toward the end of the starting cycle. keep in mind I did not plug the truck in last night. I just had to charge the batteries for about an hour this morning.
how much coolant will come out when I drain it?
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